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The Tampa Tribune

Published: November 7, 2008

CHINESE

CHINA BUFFET, 1245 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 615-1310. The star attraction of this all-you-can-eat buffet is its surprisingly fresh, high-quality sushi. For lunch, they have an ample variety of sushi rolls, with a few pieces of nigiri (strips of fish atop fingers of rice) here and there. Plus there's vegetarian sushi for those who haven't yet made the leap to raw fish. For dinner, they put out more nigiri, which requires much more fish. The rest of the buffet is the standard fare of most Chinese restaurants - noodles, vegetables, different types of pork and chicken, soups and salad-makings. They also offer you-peel-'em crawdads and cold shrimp. ($)

CHINA GARDEN, 3904 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 805-2929. Arrive hungry and prepare to dine in a cafeterialike atmosphere with big crowds who come for the super lunch and dinner buffets. Daily features include a Mongolian "u-pick it, they cook it" BBQ. Choose from raw pork, chicken, beef and fresh vegetables, which you hand over to be sizzled on the griddle. Soups, sushi, dim sum, Korean kimchi, egg rolls, barbecue spare rib tips, fried rice and crisp green beans line up next to Egg Foo Young, Sweet and Sour Chicken, Beef and Broccoli, Hunan Shrimp, Peking Duck and Pork Lo Mein and much, much more. ($)

CHINA YUAN RESTAURANT, 8502 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 936-7388. If your taste buds need excitement, consider China Yuan. A visit here is not a trip to Chinatown but to China. This authentic Cantonese spot is not Americanized, but a good place to explore new tastes. Try the Fresh Squid in Pepper and Black Bean Sauce or ask if the sweet blue crab dishes are available. Other good choices include Sizzling Pork Chops, Snow Pea Tips (an entree of flavorful, bright green leaves) and fried rice cooked with shrimp, chicken and ham. ($-$$)

HAO WAH, 1713 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-2095. For appetizers, check out an order of six steamed dumplings, crab meat Rangoon, Chinese roast pork or fantail shrimp. A simple but tasty dish for $7 is honey chicken, the nuggets of breast meat crisp and butter fried, served with a sweet honey sauce. Other good bets are the flavorful Shrimp With Cashew Nuts, Seven Stars Around the Moon, the sizzling Goba and Flower Basket Delight. ($-$$)

P.F. CHANG'S CHINA BISTRO, 219 WestShore Plaza, Tampa; (813) 289-8400. The menu is representative of the major culinary regions of China (Hunan, Sichuan, Canton, Shanghai, Beijing), with a few Southeast Asian dishes thrown in. Entrees come with both white and brown rice, along with soy sauce, chili oil and vinegar. Try Spicy Ground Chicken and Eggplant, the minced chicken perfectly complementing the smooth wedges of eggplant. Cantonese Roasted Duck is presented with steamed wheat buns, julienned cucumbers and scallions, and plum and hoisin sauces. Chang's Chicken in Soothing Lettuce Wraps (spicy chicken, water chestnuts and mushrooms) is a must-try appetizer. ($-$$)

T.C. CHOY'S ASIAN BISTRO, 301 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-1191. This Oriental bistro cooks up more than 100 Chinese dishes, including eel, octopus, abalone, shark's fin, Mongolian Beef, Japanese Seaweed Salad, Honey Glazed Scallops and whole Beijing duck. You'll also find 30 to 40 dim sum selections. Vegetarians will have no trouble finding zesty options. ($$)

COLOMBIAN

LA PEQUENA COLOMBIA RESTAURANTE, 6312 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa; (813) 876-8338. This West Tampa eatery has a distinctive Colombian flair. Latin music wafts through the three small dining rooms adorned with native art and crafts. Antojos (appetizers) include tamales (corn pie with meat and vegetables), empanadas (meat pies) and arepas con queso (corn tortillas with cheese). Entradas (entrees) range from Chuleta Colombiana (breaded steak) to Sobrebarriga (steamed brisket with tio sauce) and Bandeja Paisa, Colombia's popular dish of beans, rice, eggs, meat and plantains. Breakfast includes Higado Encebollado (liver and onions), arroz, Huevos Revuelto (scrambled rice and eggs) and Calentado de Frijoles (rice and beans). ($)

CONTINENTAL

BEACH BISTRO, 6600 Gulf Drive, Holmes Beach; (941) 778-6444. A continental restaurant barely big enough to be real, the Beach Bistro seats guests just yards from the Gulf of Mexico. Count on personal attention and artful presentation. The Bistro covers all the bases. Seafood is fresh; beef is prime; and poultry is impeccably prepared, especially the mouth-watering Duckling au Poivre. Don't skip dessert. Chocolate Truffle Terrine and Praline Alexandra are the ones to order. ($$$)

BUDAPEST RESTAURANT, 7411 U.S. 19 N., New Port Richey; (727) 848-4437. Two words describe this place: Hungarian heartiness. The Budapest Platter for Two is an edible version of Noah's Ark - two breaded pork chops, two veal cutlets, sausage for two, two fried chicken livers, two breaded mushrooms, two orders of coleslaw and a flood of home-fried potatoes. Reasonable prices. ($)

CAFE BISTRO AT NORDSTROM, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd. (International Plaza), Tampa; (813) 875-4400. This culinary treasure, hidden away on the second floor of Nordstrom, is an ideal place to take a break from shopping. The open kitchen prepares excellent soups, salads, pizzas, sandwiches and entrees. Try anything with fries, but save room for the white chocolate bread pudding. ($$)

CAFE L'EUROPE, 431 St. Armands Circle, Sarasota; (941) 388-4415. Continental food at monumental prices. Cafe L'Europe is a mainstay of St. Armands Circle indulgence. But, heck, you can watch your friends shop while you eat, and the goose liver pate is one of the best anywhere. The duck salad is something to quack about. Appetizers in general are outstanding. ($$-$$$)

FLY BAR & RESTAURANT, 1202 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 275-5000. This chichi downtown eatery with the big-city feel and rooftop deck serves small plates and exotic cocktails late into the night, or sandwiches at lunchtime. Sandwiches are more consistent than the ambitious evening fare, which doesn't always live up to its price. But you can't beat the ambience. ($$-$$$)

GOOD TIMES CONTINENTAL RESTAURANT, 1130 Pinellas Bayway, Tierra Verde; (727) 867-0774. Since 1977, the Good Times Continental Restaurant has served a melting-pot array of Czech, Austrian, German and French dishes. Yet the image from this description shouldn't be all Old World heaviness. Fresh Florida foods accent the menu. Dinners are full course, which means rye bread, soup and salad in addition to an entree with heaps of vegetables and carbohydrates such as potatoes, noodles or dumplings. Dishes of note include scamp (a smaller, flakier fish than grouper), coquilles Saint Jacques (scallops in a mushroom-laden cream and butter sauce), beef stroganoff and wiener schnitzel. ($$)

OPHELIA'S ON THE BAY, 9105 Midnight Pass Road, Siesta Key; (941) 349-2212. Vivaldi and Giuliani guitar concertos waft through the rooms, while candles and fresh flowers adorn the tables. Located at Marker 48 off the Intracoastal, Ophelia's dishes up some of the more delicious entrees in the Sarasota area, such as eggplant basil crepes with spinach. ($$$)

RESTAURANT HAPA, 3970 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; (813) 749-8400. An outstanding addition to the Bay area's fine-dining scene, this Oldsmar eatery is tucked into an unassuming strip mall. Once inside, elegance and good taste reign supreme, from the opulent decor to the compact menu. Lamb and duck are standouts, but the fish dishes are also excellent. Be sure to save room for the souffle of the day. ($$$)

THE SCHNITZELHAUS, 4333 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 884-5634. This cozy German restaurant rises above the American stereotype of Teutonic fare, and owners Mike, Susi and Ralph Jacobi serve comfort food in generous portions. Start with an order of potato pancakes or the luscious goulash soup. Entrees worth chowing down on are Jagerschnitzel smothered in a dark mushroom sauce and the Schnitzel Gourmet Dinner, leg of lamb and venison roast in a heavy wine-and-cream sauce. The marinated beef sauerbraten, like many other entrees, comes with red cabbage and spaetzle. ($)

INDIAN

ANGITHI FINE INDIAN RESTAURANT, 2047 E. Fowler Ave. (across from University Mall), Tampa; (813) 979-4889. Experience Rudyard Kipling's India through your taste buds with hearty kormas and kofta, pakoras and panir. A generous Mix Tandoor Platter displays the chef's talent with the cone-shaped clay oven. ($)

BOMBAY MASALA, 4023 W. Waters Ave., Tampa; (813) 880-7511. Here you'll find satisfying Indian cuisine, including vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes made with a fragrant blend of flavors such as coriander, turmeric, cumin, garlic and black pepper. The chef makes a number of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetable dishes, with a favorite being Lamb Madras. The dish is prolific with curry, coconut and spices and goes well with long-grain basmati rice. We also like the Maharajah sampler platter with deep-fried samosas (filled with green peas and potatoes); pakoras (battered cauliflower florets, onion and spinach); and onion bhaji (free-form onion and chickpea fritters). ($-$$)

SHALIMAR INDIAN CUISINE, 204 Morgan St., Tampa; (813) 222-3400. One of the rare downtown eateries open after dark, this venerable Indian restaurant is a class act. The tandoori meats and vegetarian dishes are highlights, and the Bollywood movies playing above the bar add to the atmosphere. The lunch buffet is also good. ($$)

TAJ, University Collection, 2734-B E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-8483. The soothing, warm and sweet-spicy aromas of curry and cardamom blanket the air at Taj, a gourmet Indian restaurant near the University of South Florida that has become a favorite of the gastronomically adventurous. Soups are a must - especially the Mulligatawny - but so is every other course here. Bits of raisins, lamb and nuts add sweetness, savoriness and crunch to several entrees. Plenty here for vegetarian palates, too. Consider a side order of thin, delicate Naan bread to soak up scrumptious sauces. ($)

PACIFIC RIM

THE BAMBOO CLUB, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 353-0326. Pacific Rim favorites are steamed, sizzled, woked and flash fried. Don't miss Woked Vietnamese Shrimp and Chicken with a zesty cracked pepper and soy sauce. Thai Spicy Shrimp with green beans gets zip from crushed red peppers. Squid fans should order the Spicy Crackling Calamari Salad. Bamboo Club also serves wonderful fried spinach, crisp woked beef and lemon grass shrimp. Three noodle dishes can be served as soup or woked entrees. ($$-$$$)

SEVEN 17 SOUTH, 717 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 250-1661. The menu features Italian cuisine on one side, Pacific Rim on the other. The kitchen takes its diners on a culinary tour that begins in Tuscany, then jumps to Hawaii, China and Japan. Dinners start with addicting pesto-swirl bread, and entrees of note are Fettuccine al Salmone; Seafood Risotto with lobster, shrimp, scallops and calamari; roast duck; Guava-Marinated Pork Tenderloin; and a killer Macadamia-Crusted Rack of Lamb with a coffee glaze and pineapple-mint chutney. ($$)

ZEN FORREST, 4148 Rowan Road, New Port Richey; (727) 372-9545. Take a trek through Asia without a hefty travel bill by savoring Chef Victor Wang's artful dishes, inspired by the cuisines of China, Japan, Korea, Vietnam, Thailand and beyond. The delicious and healthful meals include a chicken and rice soup featuring a hint of anise, Thai Coconut Curry with lemon grass-infused chicken, and a seafood feast of shrimp, calamari, mussels, sea scallops and vegetables over fried noodles. ($$-$$$)

VIETNAMESE

BAMBOOZLE CAFE, 516 N Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-7320. Bamboozle Cafe adds Vietnamese cuisine to the city center's lunchtime landscape, giving downtown office workers a fresh, healthful and exotic alternative to the usual deli fare. Fresh rolls - meats and veggies wrapped in translucent rice paper - are made to order and, in our experience, with a delicate touch. Traditional noodle salads and giant bowls of Pho soup are also good bets. ($)

RESTAURANT BT, 1633 W. Snow Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1916. No discussion about restaurants in Tampa can exclude B.T. Nguyen-Batley's masterpiece of French-Vietnamese cuisine in Hyde Park Village, where a regal menu marries a sophisticated atmosphere. Nguyen-Batley has created an exotic and undulating landscape in food, each dish energized by earthy ingredients and finished off with an artist's brush. We don't need to recommend any one entree because the entire menu stands out. ($$-$$$)

SAIGON BAY, 2373 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-0854. The former Lemongrass delivers cordial service and a moderately priced menu of Vietnamese family fare, much of it anchored in noodles or rice. Consider a bowl of seafood soup, Pho Do Bien, and the bananas flambe dessert, served over coconut ice cream. ($)

TRANG VIET CUISINE 1524 E. FOWLER AVE., TAMPA; (813) 979-1464. While this family-owned Vietnamese spot may need a makeover - a faded mix of "Miami Vice" pastels make it feel a bit out of date - its dishes are classic, timeless and delicious. From Curry Chicken (Ca Ri Ga), to Noodle Stir-Fry to Steamed Buns (Banh Bao), the food is tasty and satisfying. A favorite among vegetarians, Trang is accommodating with many flesh-free alternatives, including tofu and faux-meat versions of most dishes. This is a family-friendly Vietnamese restaurant that won't empty your wallet. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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