Tribune photo by JEFF HOUCK
Mythos Restaurant at Universal's Islands of Adventure theme park offers outdoor seating with views of the rest of the park.
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Published: November 7, 2008
ORLANDO - It wasn't long ago that the most exotic theme park food you could find was an ice cream bar with chocolate Mickey Mouse ears to nibble on.
These days, your theme park experience can be enhanced with a bowl of steamed mussels, made-to-order sushi, melt-in-your-mouth brisket or blackened scallops served while sharks swim in a tank next to your table.
If all you go to theme parks for is to scream bloody murder on The Hulk roller coaster or spin until you puke in the Mad Hatter Tea Party teacups, you're only experiencing half of what they have to offer.
The best part: Visitors can enjoy fine dining experiences in comfort, wearing shorts, sneakers and T-shirts.
To find the tastiest offerings, we went to all of the major parks in Orlando in a three-day span. (Four Disney parks, two at Universal Studios and SeaWorld.) It was more grueling than it sounds, if only because there were so many great choices to weed through.
We split our search into three categories: sit-down dining, walk-up restaurants and food kids would love.
First, a word of advice: Reservations are a must for sit-down meals. Some restaurants, such as the Brown Derby at Disney's Hollywood Studios, suggest reservations be made 180 days in advance. Some only take them 90 days out. With limited seating and lots of demand, you can't plan too far ahead.
Another factor to consider: Most sit-down restaurants charge a standard 18 percent gratuity for parties of six or more. Sounds like a lot, but the servers earn their pay while trying to make a table full of families with tired kids happy at the end of a long day.
Reacting to rising food prices and a sluggish economy, each of the parks offers dining plans that give discounts at certain restaurants. Geared primarily toward larger families and groups, the plans have lots of variations, so be sure to check out each park's Web site for details on prices and how to sign up.
MAGIC KINGDOM
Sit-down:
Just off Main Street, near the circle in front of Cinderella's Castle, the Plaza Restaurant serves a grilled Reuben with corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese stacked higher than Cinderella's Castle between two slices of marble rye with fries ($10.49). Be sure to ask for extra Thousand Island dressing to dip the fries. Milkshakes topped with whipped cream and a cherry are the bargain here ($4.29). Each is served with a backup canister of whatever didn't make it into the glass - equal to another glass-and-a-half serving. There is good people-watching outside if you choose to wait instead of making reservations.
Walk-up:
Between the Hall of Presidents and the Haunted Mansion, you'll find Columbia Harbor House. If you like fried food, go for the fried fish basket with either apple slices or fries ($7.09). For something lighter, try the hummus and tomato slice Lighthouse Sandwich with broccoli slaw ($6.49).
Kids:
A Dole Whip pineapple soft-serve ice cream ($2.49) at the Aloha Aisle in Adventureland is a refreshing way to cool down in the afternoon.
EPCOT
Sit-down:
In the corner of the Italian palazzo in the park's World Showcase, Tutto Italia Ristorante is tutto bene! With ornate interiors, an expert wait staff and a menu full of Italian comfort food, the restaurant can accommodate large groups as well as intimate dining. Every dish we had was great, but you should try the pumpkin ravioli if it's on special. And don't forget the calamari. Limited outdoor seating in the evening lends a European ambience. Tell Alessandro the waiter we said, "Ciao"
Walk-up:
Not technically a quick-serve restaurant, Tokyo Dining is perfect for couples who love sushi. A swanky new interior redesign complements the outstanding menu. Get there early for lunch to sit at the sushi bar and watch the magnificent creations go by. We dug the Ginza Gozan, a bento box with tempura and sushi ($23.50). Pricey, yes, but well worth it on a splurge.
Kids:
The little ones will love the sweet Norwegian pretzel ($3.79) at the Kringla Bakeri Og Kafe. Parents will love the Viking Coffee with Baileys Irish Cream ($8). Did we just say that out loud?
ANIMAL KINGDOM
Sit-down:
The menu at the newest sit-down dining spot at the park, the Anandapur Yak & Yeti Restaurant, serves Asian flavors in a Himalayan-themed setting. Whatever you choose for an entree, start with the steamed black mussels lounging in a bowl of white wine, lemon grass and Thai basil broth ($10.50). The dim sum for two ($13.99) and lettuce cups ($12.99) were delicious as well. For dessert, the fried cream-cheese and pineapple won tons impaled on skewers with vanilla ice cream was a great surprise ($7.99). Secret tip: You don't have to sit down to get a sample of the Y&Y food experience. It also has a walk-up window that serves fried rice and other menu items.
Walk-up:
'Cue lovers will go for the half-slab of St. Louis-style ribs at Flame Tree Barbecue ($10.49).
Kids:
Rainforest Cafe's Lava Mud of creamy chocolate pudding with crushed Oreo cookies and gummy worms ($2.99) will make them smile.
DISNEY'S HOLLYWOOD STUDIOS
Sit-down:
For a taste of swanky, '30s-era Tinseltown dining, try the Brown Derby. Corner booths are lovely and intimate, and the trademark Cobb Salad ($14) does not disappoint. Tables are hard to come by, though, so reservations are vital. If you can't secure a spot in advance, be sure to ask the maitre'd for a slice of the grapefruit cake to go. Even at $8 a slice, the yellow cake with fresh grapefruit cream cheese is a treat.
Walk-up:
Toluca Legs Turkey Co. ($6.19) offers pterodactyl-sized turkey legs that are hearty enough for two to share. Plus, it's food on a stick - Bonus!
Kids:
Go for either a bubble gum or blue cotton candy ice cream served in a waffle cone ($3.79) at KRNR Station Snacks, next to the Rock 'n' Roll Rollercoaster. Find a seat nearby and you can listen to people screaming their lungs out on the nearby Tower of Terror ride.
SEAWORLD
Sit-down:
Adjacent to the park's Shark Encounter exhibit, Sharks Underwater Grill serves an upscale menu in a tableside setting that gives customers a breathtaking view of sand tiger, sandbar and nurse sharks. When we first entered, the dining room looked like a set from "The Spy Who Loved Me." Once we refocused on the food, we very much enjoyed the blackened sea scallops ($20.95), which were bathing in a tomato-citrus beurre blanc. Served with grilled vegetables, it was a belly-filler.
Walk-up:
The lines can be long at Smoky Creek Grill, right next to the Seaport Theater. That's OK because you'll need the time to decide whether to order the barbecue chicken, spareribs, baby back ribs or brisket. Whittle it down by going for the two-meat combo with fries and a roll for $10.69. There's a nice shaded patio next-door where you can sit and devour your plate of meat to the bone.
Kids:
At Sweet Sailin' Candy near the park entrance, a Shamu cookies-and-milk gift set with orca-shaped plate, cup and twisty straw ($8.99) makes a nice treat and souvenir.
UNIVERSAL'S ISLANDS OF ADVENTURE
Sit-down:
For six years, Theme Park Insider ( www.themeparkinsider.com) has named Mythos Restaurant the best theme park eatery in the world. After years of walking past the stone façade, we found a fantastic and affordable (by theme park standards) menu to choose from in an elaborately themed mythological setting. The blueberry- and pistachio-crusted grilled pork ($13.95) with spinach and macaroni and cheese was hearty enough to fill up for an entire day. The risotto of the day (ours came with a filet) was a bargain for $15.95. To finish the meal, we enjoyed apple pie and carrot cake dessert shots ($1.75 each). But the fun item was the Rice Crispi Sushi Treats made with Fruit Roll-Ups and dipped in chocolate ($1.99).
Walk-up:
The cafeteria-style Thunder Falls Terrace sells some of the tastiest and most-affordable food in the park. Roasted corn on the cob ($1.99) went well with a platter of rotisserie chicken and our mango BBQ ribs ($11.49). When you're done, go wash your hands by standing in the splash zone outside the Jurassic Park ride.
Kids:
If your child isn't happy with a jumbo cookie ($1.99) at Croissant Moon bakery on the way out of the park, exchange your offspring for another kid. Seriously. These things are so huge and delicious, hours of joy are guaranteed. On hot days, you owe it to yourself to buy the child an Icee ($3.49) at Brown and BlacksSnacks in Seussland.
UNIVERSAL STUDIOS
Sit-down:
Try ordering the Scotch Eggs and pastys as lunch-worthy appetizers at Finnegan's Bar & Grill. The hard-boiled eggs wrapped in sausage are dusted with bread crumbs and fried and served with apple beet salad and mustard sauce ($5.95). The Cornish pastys were stuffed with delicious ground beef, potatoes and carrots ($5.95).
Walk-up:
We fail miserably every time we try to resist The Big One burger at Richter's Burger Co. ($7.49). Served with fries, it's easily the most dependable meal at the park. Feel free to pelt a friend in the chest with a ketchupy tomato from the dress-it-yourself fixings bar. It worked for one of our disgruntled relatives in a fit of pique.
Kids:
Eight words: Cream Horn pastry at the Beverly Hills Boulangerie ($7.99). Two more: holy cow.
OTHER MORSELS
We said this was about food at the parks, but we would be remiss if we didn't mention these places nearby:
T-Rex Cafe at Downtown Disney - Giant animatronic dinosaurs. Need we say more?
Wolfgang Puck Express at Downtown Disney - The very thought of the Applewood Smoked Bacon breakfast pizza, with scrambled eggs, Niman Ranch Bacon, mozzarella and cheddar cheese and ranch dressing, makes us want to get in the car and drive there right now ($8.95).
California Grill at Disney's Contemporary Resort - Some of the area's best sushi can be found here. Try the Yellowfin Tuna Three Ways (Poki, Tartare and Tataki) for $20. Go late and watch the end-of-the-evening fireworks at the Magic Kingdom nearby.
Gospel brunch at House of Blues at Downtown Disney - Gospel music and an all-you-can-eat-while-clapping feast at 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m. every Sunday. Cost: $33.50 for adults, $17.25 children ages 3 to 9.
HEALTHY OPTIONS
Vegetarians, vegans and the health-conscious need not despair.
Toontown Farmer's Market at Magic Kingdom - A great place to pick up fresh fruit, juices or a yogurt cup.
Flame Tree Barbecue at Animal Kingdom - A seasonal fruit plate is served with honey yogurt. ($6.99)
Anaheim Produce at Disney's Hollywood Studios - Assorted apples, oranges and grapefruit (99 cents), Granny Smith apple slices with caramel sauce ($3.49), trail mix ($2.99) and celery with lite ranch dressing ($3.69) offer nutritious alternatives
Mama's Kitchen Healthy Alternatives at SeaWorld - A quick-service restaurant, it serves food with fresh ingredients and lighter options, such as nonfat mayonnaise and dressing and whole-wheat bread and pasta. There are even turkey hot dogs for the kids.
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