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Smoke A Roast For A Rib-Roaring Holiday

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Considering the quality and the number of people it will feed, standing rib roasts are a great value.

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By TONY “FATSO” SICILIANO

Tribune correspondent

Published: November 18, 2008

Like it or not, the holiday season is rapidly approaching, and for many of us that means entertaining friends and relatives.

And by entertaining, I really mean feeding.

While the big days have their traditional meals, you can't serve turkey at every winter gathering. So let's change it up, try something new and reap the praise from your guests.

Sometimes a great meal is just waiting to be cooked by you, but something is standing in your way. Some cuts of meat scare the average griller away just because of the price tag. One of those cuts is the standing rib roast. It certainly isn't cheap, but it's a lot of meat. When you think about the quality of the product and the number of people it will feed, it is actually a great value.

When you pick up a standing rib roast at the butcher's case, you may have a flashback to our cave-dwelling ancestors lugging a huge chunk of meat back to the cave. But properly cooked and cut into steaks, this roast is one of the greatest meals in the world.

As the name implies, the standing rib roast is cut from the rib section. A steer has 13 pairs of ribs; this section contains the meat along ribs six through 12. A standing rib roast sliced into 1-inch rib-eye steaks is perfect for grilling over direct high heat. But if you slow-cook the larger standing rib roasts, you get the perfect meat for any occasion.

The preparation of a standing rib roast starts the day before you cook it. Prepare your thawed roast by brushing it with a layer of olive oil and pack a spicy rub on the outside of the meat. Wrap the seasoned roast in cellophane and let it sit in the refrigerator overnight; the rub's flavor will penetrate the meat as it sits.

The roast is best prepared to medium-rare in the center, and no part of the roast should be cooked past medium doneness. As you get closer to the ends of the roast, you are going to have a more well-done piece of meat, so it's critical to monitor the temperature.

To properly smoke a standing rib roast, you have to maintain a temperature of 225 degrees. Simply place the roast directly on the grill grate, away from the heat, and check the temperature regularly. Use several chunks of oak wood to add natural smoke flavor to the roast. Be sure to place a disposable aluminum drip pan underneath the roast to catch any of the moisture that may fall from the meat while cooking.

Take your roast off the grill when it reaches 125 degrees. Once you remove the meat from the grill, let it rest under a loose-fitting aluminum foil cover for about 20 minutes before slicing into servings. During the resting time, the steak will continue to cook itself another 10 degrees with its own radiant heat.

There is no need to add more wood to the fire once the original pieces of oak burn up. You want to add a hint of smoke to enhance the natural flavor of the meat; you don't want to overpower the meat with smoke. While the middle is medium-rare, the ends of the roast will be cooked to medium and register at about 145 degrees when done.

Cooking a standing rib roast is relatively easy, but it does take time. It takes about a half-hour per pound to cook, so a full bone-in roast weighing in at 18 pounds will take nine hours in the smoker. If you start before breakfast, the roast might just be ready for dinner.

A roast is ideal for company because it can offer steaks that will appeal to the different likings of your guests. For example, even though it is completely cooked, a medium-well piece of prime rib still has a red, fleshly appearance and moist texture. If you find your guest isn't the biggest fan of that kind of meat, you can always throw it back on the grill for two minutes per side over direct heat to give it the appearance of a grilled steak.

You can even carve the roast at the table and cater to the preferences of your guests. Slicing that piping hot flavorful standing rib roast fills the room with its wonderful aroma and provides a nice finishing touch to the preparation. Slap a pile of mashed potatoes on the plate along with a steamed vegetable, and you have a meal that could rival any fancy-schmancy restaurant.

TONY FATSO'S RIB ROAST RUB

2 cups coarse kosher salt

1 cup freshly ground black pepper

½ cup garlic powder

½ cup onion powder

¼ cup cayenne pepper

Mix all of the spices together. Brush the outside of the roast with olive oil and apply a thick layer of rub to the outside surface of the roast. Wrap the roast in cellophane and place it in the refrigerator overnight. Smoke in a 225 degree smoker until internal temperature reaches 125 degrees in the center and then rest the roast for 20 minutes under foil before carving.

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