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Put Your European Vacation On The Right Track

Photo by TOM WUCKOVICH

Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia, is a picturesque town where activities center around the Ljubljana River.

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By TOM WUCKOVICH

Special to TBO.com

Published: November 28, 2008

The continuous whir of steel wheels on steel rails is calming - almost to the point of being hypnotic. Outside the oversized windows of the super sleek train's den-like compartment, the dazzling European countryside floats by, reminiscent of the early days of filmmaking when the screen image backdrop was intended to give the idea of motion.

Often, in only a matter of minutes, the scenery changes from valleys of yellow rippling rapeseed, to verdant hills and snow-covered mountains and finally to cityscapes that include - of course - the historic architecture that Americans adore.

Train travel in Europe has always been alluring for North Americans who openly yearn to have their own rail system as comfortable, efficient and reliable as their European counterpart. Travel by Eurail is convenient, fun and certainly romantic.

The selection of passes offered by Eurail Group is so extensive, that virtually every country in Europe participates in some form or another, and your vacation plans could include one country or two, or three or more. That's flexibility. There's also an added bonus! While the passes are predominantly associated with rail travel, there are a host of "bonus partners" offering discounts (and in some cases, free transportation) to Eurail Pass holders.
In some participating countries, shipping lines, sightseeing tours and hotels give added value to the Eurail Pass by offering special deals. In this day and time, every little bit helps!

On a recent journey using Eurail as my main transportation and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines as my gateway to Europe, I was able to include three fantastic countries in my itinerary that spanned a period of only 10 days. My visit began in musical Vienna, Austria, and also featured Salzburg before I traveled to the Eastern European enclaves of Slovenia and Croatia, two lesser-known central Euopean countries that possess incredible charm and diversity.

In Vienna, as in the other countries on the itinerary, I stayed in hotels situated in the center of town, which made touring and sightseeing virtually effortless. In Vienna, the Hotel Alstadt was my sanctuary for the short stay. Completed in 2006, the 49-room hotel featuring Matteo Thun designed rooms, recalls the frivolous life of Vienna's most famous courtesan, Josephine Mutzenbacher.

The hotel is conveniently located near the Innere Stadt, where most of the city's attractions are clustered. Armed with a Vienna Card, a 72-hour pass that gives you unlimited use of public transport and discounted museum entry, I began my exploration in this area of cobblestoned medieval streets.

It is not only the city's imperial architecture that renders it a place of beauty. Vienna boasts world-renowned museums, art collections and works of art. The Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Fine Arts) houses the world's largest collection of paintings by Bruegel, while numerous works by Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele are exhibited at the Belvedere and the Leopold Museum in the Museums Quartier.

The Museums Quartier, a cultural attraction of international standing, opened in 2001. Covering 45,000 square meters, it is an architecturally fascinating combination of baroque (the former Imperial Stables) and future-oriented design by architects Ortner & Ortner. With 60,000 square meters of usable floor space on eight different levels, it is one of the ten largest cultural complexes in the world, offering a unique mix of uses. Key attractions include: the Leopold Museum with the world's largest collection of Schieles and works by renowned modern Austrian artists such as Klimt, Kokoschka and Gerst; the Museum of Modern Art, Architkturzentrum Wien, and Kunsthalle Wien. Two festival halls (seating 1,000 and 300) are used for high-profile events such as the Vienna Festival, the International Dance Weeks and even for pop concerts. A children's museum, a children's theater, an information center for youngsters, and a number of attractive restaurants, cafés and shops complement the rich array of cultural offerings.

Vienna boasts 50 theaters, including three opera houses and two stage musical theaters, 100 museums, and renowned drama, music and dance festivals. In addition, ambitious exhibitions are frequently scheduled. All this ensures an extraordinarily rich cultural program throughout the year, making Vienna one of Europe's leading cultural centers. I concluding my touring with a visit to Schonbrunn Palace, summer residence of the Hapsburg emperors.

Following breakfast, it was on to Salzburg on the 8:22 a.m. morning train, which arrived at 10:58 a.m. From the train station to the Sheraton Salzburg was just minutes and after a sumptuous lunch at the Hotel Goldener Hirsch, a traditional hotel and Salzburg landmark, it was on to a guided city tour.

This ancestral home of Mozart is a cultural treasure. Countless concerts, operas, art exhibitions and traditional arts are scheduled regularly and are a feast for the senses. One way to combine the feast and the pleasure of sound is to attend a Mozart Dinner Concert. This unique affair is held at the baroque hall of St. Peter's Abbey and features exquisite dining interspersed with classical music. An incredibly beautiful way to end a day in Salzburg.

But before you think of ending your stay, visit the Mirabell Garden and Schloss Hellbrunn palace, and take a stroll through Getreidegasse, which used to be Salzburg´s main road. Mozart was born in Getreidegasse n° 9, which makes the house a popular attraction. Feste Hohensalzburg castle, a majestic structure, towers above the town.

Salzburg has one other distinction that will forever remain as part of its history. The engaging and notable film "The Sound of Music" is synonymous with Salzburg. The 1964 classic was set in Salzburg, and while local folk aren't the biggest fans of the film, there can be no denying its appeal to tourists, who can visit many of the sites highlighted in the movie.

Now, visitors can go one better-an actual stay at the Villa von Trapp, the family portrayed in the musical. The villa, a monastery for more than 60 years, is now a quaint bed and breakfast containing 14 rooms and suites that feature some of the original furnishings belonging to the von Trapps.

Baron von Trapp lived in the house with his family from 1923 to 1938 before it was occupied in 1939 by the Nazis. The villa opened last July and room rates average around $160 for a double room in low season. Extras include breakfast and a Sound of Music tour. Check out the villa at www.villa-trapp.cc.

The whirlwind, but fulfilling, tour of Salzburg over, it was time to board the 9 a.m. train bound for the Eastern European enclave of Slovenia and its charming capital city of Ljubljana (pronounced lube-yana). The four-hour trip into this central European region bordering the Adriatic Sea, Croatia, Austria, Hungary and Italy, was one of the most scenic journeys encountered during the 11-day Eurail tour.

Ljubljana rests along the Ljubljana River and the city if reminiscent of what San Antonio has done with its riverside location. The waterfront is lined with cafes, shops, restaurants, wine bars, and an open-air market designed by architect Joze Plecnik, whose contributions to Slovenian architecture also include museums, the National Library and several bridges, including the notable Triple Bridge, adjacent to Preseren Square, a popular meeting place for locals and named after France Preseren, the Slovene national poet, who also contributed the lyrics to the Slovenian National Anthem.

Blessed with magnificent architecture-like most European cities-Ljubljana nevertheless has the feel of a small town. A walk along the river is calming and peaceful and should be complemented with a stop at a local café for coffee and the famed "potica" cake, a dessert pastry filled with walnuts. Enjoy this unique fare while watching the boats and barges navigate the river.

You may also want to try the Slovenian wine, since the city is known as the "city of wine and vine." The Romans are credited with planting the first grapevines which still cover the hills below Ljubljana Castle, a citadel that towers above the old town. A tour of the castle should be on your list of sites to see.

Another castle of note is Bled Castle, a short train ride from the city. This mountain resort on lake Bled is home to The Church of the Assumption and the medieval Bled Castle. The Lake Bled region is beautifully forested and picturesque, a favorite retreat of former Yugoslav president Tito. Tito built a villa here and it is now a four-star hotel. Ferries below the hotel take visitors to the island where the Church of the Assumption is located. According to legend, if a groom can carry his bride up the 99 steps to the church, his marriage will be a long and successful one.

Nearby Lake Bled is Vintgar Gorge, which offers a mile-long walk along a roaring river before ending in a small park. It's a perfect spot for nature lovers to sample Slovenia outdoors. The river is crystal clear, and in some isolated pools, formed by large boulders, huge schools of fish can be seen scavenging for food.

At night, the riverside in Ljubljana comes alive with music and laughter. The lights from the square, boats and cafes create a romantic, laid-back atmosphere. Dinner should feature the wild game and mushrooms the country is noted for. It's a great way to cap the visit to the city.

Just two hours by train from the capital of Slovenia is the capital of Croatia-Zagreb. This ancient city is the cultural center of Croatia and contains a number of outstanding museums such as Mimmara, Klovicevi Dvori and the Museum of Arts and Crafts. Old trams, built in 1923, still crisscross the city and are a great way to get around. The city is split into two enclaves - the upper and lower towns - that are connected by a funicular. The short ride from the lower town to the upper is rewarded with great views of the capital and other interesting sites, such as St. Marks Church, which sits on a square that is noted for its intense political activity. On this day, it is filled with celebrants marking the marriage of several of the town's local residents. The area also features costumed characters representing some of Croatia's most recognized figures, as well as individuals who light the street lamps as darkness nears.

One of the more interesting places to see is Mirogoi Cemetery, one of the oldest in Europe, and resting place for many of Croatia's most celebrated patriots. The cemetery was created by Viennese architect Herman Bolle and features a computer program that aids visitors in finding relatives or famous persons.

A visit to Zagreb would not be complete without experiencing the open-air market, a bustling enterprise in the middle of the city that showcases flowers, fruits, meat and poultry along with hard goods such as clothes and furniture.

Another great open-air market with a unique location is in Split, the second-largest city to Zagreb. Split's claim to fame is the castle built by the Roman emperor Diocletian in the fourth century. Today the white marble structure that sits along Split's waterfront, is filled with apartments, shops and tourist attractions. Outside and alongside the palace is the open-air market that is jammed with people seven days a week.

The stone from the palace is the same kind that was used to build the White House in Washington. Diocletian was so enamored with Split that he built the 100,000-square-foot palace as his retirement home. The palace sits along the main promenade known as the Riva, which features many shops and restaurants catering to locals and tourists.

There are four gates to the palace and guided tours are conducted daily. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is the perfect place for visitors to experience life along the Dalmation coast.

For more information on the Eurail pass, visit www.eurailgroup.com. Reservations can be made at www.raileurope.com

For information on Austria, visit www.austria.info

NOTE: From January 1, 2009, the Czech Republic will be included in the Eurail Global Pass, as well as becoming a Eurail Select Pass member. In addition, Bulgaria has been added to the range of One Country passes.

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