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The Tampa Tribune

Published: October 10, 2008

THAI

AI-MEI-THAI RESTAURANT, 5391 34th St. S., St. Petersburg; (727) 867-0965. The menu lists more than 120 main dishes with familiar favorites such as Pad Thai and a handful of curries. Try the Thai Beef Jerky with a Thai soy sauce and scallion dip; Thai sausage, cooked in lime juice and fish sauce; or the fragrant Yum Shrimp and Squid, scented with ginger and chili paste. A user-friendly menu is spelled out like a Bingo game. For some of us, it sure is easier to say "S2" than "Tom Yum Gnoog." ($)

BAN THAI RESTAURANT, 5374 W. Village Drive, Tampa; (813) 968-7668. Enjoy the lavish teak woodwork and Oriental carvings at this elegantly appointed restaurant. The Yum appetizers are great, as is Chicken in Cream of Coconut Soup. Vegetarians have plenty of choices and there are more than a dozen macrobiotic dishes. Shrimp and pineapple are abundant in a not-too-sweet Sweet and Sour Shrimp. Ginger Chicken is a stir-fried dish with tender chicken, peppers, onions and carrots. Finish dinner with deep-fried Crunchy Banana Coins over coconut ice cream or Lychee (a Chinese fruit), along with a refreshing Thai tea. ($-$$)

BENJARONG THAI, 14402 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 265-2667. Benjarong, which translates to five colors, refers to the patterns on fine Thai porcelain. And there are fine specialties here, such as Tornado Shrimp (jumbo shrimp in a light curry sauce) and Sizzling Seafood (lobster and shellfish in a garlicky brown sauce). Ask for Benjarong's spice tray - Thai mustard sauce, jalapeno peppers, dried chili peppers, and red and green chili peppers in fish sauce. ($)

CAFE DE SIAM, 11242 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; (813) 855-1108. This restaurant offers an ambitious menu with more than 80 items. The best dishes are the appetizers. Laarb, the Thai name for a spicy pork, beef or chicken salad, is a vibrant starter. The ground pork was mixed with onions, mint and lime juice, and cabbage leaves are used as utensils for eating the meat. Yum Nuer is thinly sliced beef salad, tossed in a lime and chili sauce with tomatoes, onions and sliced cucumbers. Entrees of note include Pad Met Ma-Mouhng Himmaparn, a chicken stir-fry with scallions, cashews and dried red peppers, served in a garlicky brown sauce; and Horh Moke, a ramekin of sliced pork, cabbage and fresh basil. ($)

JASMINE THAI, 13248 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-1501. Gourmet Thai with rich, imaginative sauces and presentation worthy of Polaroids. Sample the Tornado Shrimp, and Long John Silver's will lose you forever. Fresh crustaceans arrive in an eggplant tub, doused with green curry sauce and trimmed with red pepper slivers. It's all art, all the time. ($)

PLOY THAI RESTAURANT, 1941 W. Brandon Blvd. (in the Providence Square Plaza), Brandon; (813) 684-5007. This quiet haven offers good food and good service. The kitchen takes time to present dishes as tasty art, with vegetable garnishes and pretty purple orchids. Fish fans can delight in a Whole Red Snapper, beautifully bathed in a bright chili sauce and displayed on a decorative fish platter. Panang Curry teams shrimp - simmered in coconut milk, curry and basil - with crunchy, sliced zucchini. The colorful Red Curry with pork is loaded with pineapple and mixed vegetables, and the Chili Sauce is sauteed with pork, carrots, scallions and red peppers in a peppery sauce. ($$)

PU THAI, 8730 49th St. N., Pinellas Park; (727) 547-6556. The name refers to the highlands of Thailand, but mountains of food seem like an appropriate interpretation, too. Good choices include frog legs and Pad Ke Maow, which translates as a drunk stir fry. A multitude of curry dishes come in red, green and other colors depending on its heat index. A number of steamed and sauteed vegetable dishes will please most vegetarians. ($)

ROYAL PALACE THAI RESTAURANT, 811 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-5893. Excellent sauces and vibrant vegetables are reasons enough for most guests to fight for a parking space and wait for a table at this South Tampa eatery. Enjoy the yum salads, with shrimp, squid or beef in a zesty lime juice-chili sauce with cucumbers, carrots, onions and chili peppers. A chicken version of Nam Sod is as zesty as any pork version at the competition. Sizzling chicken is a snap, crackle and pop selection of flavorful fried poultry. ($$)

SAWATDEE THAI CUISINE, 10938 N. 56th St., Temple Terrace; (813) 985-2071. There's fancier fare across town, but for a neighborhood restaurant, Sawatdee offers exotic dining at fair prices. The menu adheres to Thai basics, but offers a few surprises, including a pumpkin curry dish with choice of chicken, beef or pork. ($)

SIAM GARDEN THAI RESTAURANT, 3125 Ninth St. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 822-0613. Open since 1988, this is one of St. Petersburg's oldest Thai restaurants. Entrees include a number of tasty chicken, steak, seafood, duck and frog-leg dishes. Start dinner with Siam's Yum salads, featuring beef, shrimp or squid. Double Delight (shrimp and chicken), Clay Pot Combination (shrimp, squid and crab) and Panang Curry are other winners. ($)

SIMPLY THAI RESTAURANT, 875 E. Bloomingdale Ave., Brandon; (813) 681-4470. Spring rolls, pork sate and a hearty selection of poultry, pork, beef and seafood stir-fry selections are offered at this Brandon stop. A friendly staff walks guests through its mild to hot dishes. ($)

SUKHOTHAI RESTAURANT, 8201-A N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 933-7990. Sleek and sophisticated, tasty and tasteful. This is the place to dazzle a date. You can even touch toes by accident. In the Khan-Toke room, diners slip off their shoes and sit on the floor. Start with the duck soup. ($$)

THAI-AM 2 RESTAURANT, 13037 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 398-9700. Viyada and Sungkard Thanupakorn moved to a new, more spacious location on the beach, but the restaurant still retains its warm, friendly charm. The lengthy menu features soups, appetizers (try the nam sod, a mixture of minced chicken, lime juice and ginger) and a good selection of beef, chicken, pork and seafood entrees. Recommended are the curries, hearty and prepared with care. You'll also find tempura, teriyaki, sashimi, sushi and a number of other Japanese dishes. ($-$$)

THAI CORNER, 713 N. Franklin St., Tampa; (813) 228-6801. This solid restaurant caters to the downtown lunch crowd with a fairly traditional menu of rice and noodle-based dishes. Flavors tend to be mild, so be sure to ask if you like extra heat. Try the Red Curry and Pad See-Ew. ($$)

THAI BAY THAI RESTAURANT, 1300 E. Bay Drive (Largo Center), Largo; (727) 584-5522. A plain exterior doesn't prepare you for the inventive food found here. Order the Amazing Beef (with broccoli), Volcano Shrimp (with lava sauce) or Two Friends Panang (with curry). Entrees deliver subtle and powerful flavors. The heat index ranges from mild to molten. ($)

THAI ISLAND, 210 E. Davis Blvd. (Davis Islands), Tampa; (813) 251-9111. This family-run restaurant features fresh ingredients - many grown on the premises - and a friendly, tropical vibe. Don't miss the corn fritters (a less bricklike cousin of the hush puppy) and the panang curry, especially with pork. Homemade soups and salads are also a good bet. ($-$$)

THAI SWEET BASIL, 3875 Northdale Blvd., Tampa; (813) 961-8898. This exceptional restaurant on Northdale Boulevard is worth the drive even if you don't live in the neighborhood. The menu mixes beautifully presented classics with innovative dishes like Scallop Wasabi. The Duck Curry is an exceptional autumnal feast; also noteworthy are the Green Curry, house sangria and Fried Banana with Coconut Ice Cream. ($$)

THAI THANI, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; (813) 228-9200. Thai Thani has kept up a steady stream of locals and tourists who come for its inventive sushi and sashimi offerings in the Japanese tradition, creatively presented Thai seafood and curry dishes, and the tastefully appointed dining room. The menu reflects the influences of other countries, such as China and India, but stresses the traditional soups, curry dishes, spiced salads, fish, vegetables and dipping sauces of Thailand. Many dishes are a harmonious blend of sweet, sour and spicy - some very, very spicy. ($$)

PUBS

FLANAGAN'S IRISH PUB, 465 Main Street, Dunedin; (727) 736-4994. This casual eatery features traditional pub grub such as bangers and mash (pork sausage and mashed potatoes), fish and chips and shepherd's pie. Appetizers include Chicken Curry Fries and a Sampler Platter with potato skins, stuffed clams, chicken strips and Irish sausage rolls. You'll also find imported ales on draft and live Irish folk entertainment. ($)

FOUR GREEN FIELDS, 205 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 254-4444. This quaint, thatched-roof Irish pub has a homey atmosphere that attracts a cast of regulars. The food is potato simple and unassuming, the people friendly and the music always cheerful. The restaurant's name symbolizes the four provinces of Ireland - Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Munster. The key here is what flows on tap, what we call the Holy Trinity of Froth - 30-weight Guinness, Harp Lager and Bass Ale, among other excellent brews. ($)

MACDINTON'S, 405 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-8999. Beef stew simmering in vegetables and a rich broth of Guinness Stout is enough to bring the Irish out of anyone, and it's a staple here. But this isn't just pub grub. The kitchen cooks up Blackened Tuna sprinkled with Cajun spices and placed over vegetable couscous and a relish of pineapple and lime; herb-scented New Zealand Roast Rack of Lamb over spinach and mashed potatoes; a seared Breast of Muscovy Duck; and Gaelic Angus Sirloin with turnip puree and an Irish Whiskey mushroom sauce. ($)

MAD DOGS AND ENGLISHMEN, 4115 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 832-3037. Traditional pub fare and a good beer list share space with an upscale fusion menu with Indian and Asian accents at this South Tampa institution. Dinner specials aren't cheap, but at least you don't have to dress up at this casual spot, which offers indoor and outdoor seating. The long list of exotic side dishes makes Mad Dogs a good choice for healthful snacking, too. ($-$$$)

TAMPA BAY BREWING COMPANY, Centro Ybor, 1600 E. Eighth Ave., Tampa; (813) 247-1422. Handcrafted beer is the big draw here, from pale and amber ales to a dark, rich stout. The food stands far above your typical pub fare, with offerings ranging from bison short ribs and coconut shrimp and conch fritters to seared yellowfin tuna salad and a Cajun shrimp and tasso ham pizza. Even the chicken wings are distinctive, but go easy on the Hellfire sauce. ($-$$)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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