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The Tampa Tribune

Published: October 17, 2008

SANDWICHES/ SALADS

ABELLA'S SANDWICH SHOP, 2141 34th St., Tampa; (813) 247-2231. Chicken dishes are popular, and no wonder. Large, meaty breasts come covered with a tangy tomato sauce or Cuban-style with thick slices of sauteed sweet onions on top. Daily specials include stew beef, curry goat, ox tails, barbecue ribs, pork chops, meatloaf and pepper steak. Entrees are served with red or black beans and rice, a simple shredded iceberg lettuce and tomato salad, and Cuban bread and butter. Many of the meat entrees also are available in sandwiches. ($)

BARROW'S GOURMET FOODS, 3660 Henderson Blvd., Tampa; (813) 870-0950. This friendly, family-owned restaurant stacks up against the competition. In addition to an array of hot and cold sandwiches, the menu features soups and salads.

BEARSS SANDWICHES, 14022 N. Florida Ave., Tampa; (813) 961-9486. This tiny, bustling deli specializes in piled-high sandwiches, about two dozen combinations, each around $4. Diners get their choice of bread: Cuban, rye, egg bread, wheat, hoagie rolls, pumpernickel and onion rolls. Popular choices include the porkless Cuban, with salami, cheese and ham; the Cordon Bleu sandwich, with a thick, lightly breaded chicken filet; and a Brazil Cariocca, which is a combination of hard salami, ham, American cheese and oregano. ($)

CALIFORNIA CICCIO, 190 37th Ave. N., St. Petersburg; (727) 898-8226. This delightful little haunt may look like a fast food joint, with only a handful of booths and a brisk takeout business. But the product is worth sitting down for, and some offerings are downright addicting. The kitchen plays with ingredients and flavors, blending cuisines of Asia, South America and the Mediterranean. The menu features wraps, pasta, infused stir-frys, pizzas and salads - all at bargain prices. ($)

CARROLLWOOD CAFE & DELI, 11606 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 964-9008. Sandwiches are a mainstay of this cafe's menu, and you'll be tempted to try them all. Start with the Wall Street Reuben, a big bruiser with corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing on Jewish rye bread. Or go with the Deli Trio, a classic combination of kosher corned beef, New York pastrami and Swiss cheese. Chicken noodle and Boston clam chowder are everyday staples, along with a third soup that changes daily. ($)

EARL OF SANDWICH, International Plaza, 2223 N. West Shore Blvd., Tampa; (813) 879-1762. When the Englishman John Montagu died in 1792, he left behind a legacy that included service as postmaster general, secretary of state and first lord of the admiralty. He also was the fourth earl of Sandwich, a dignitary in a long line of English peerage that exists to this day. He was credited with inventing the sandwich, and the fast-casual restaurant bearing his name serves about 20 simple, filling choices, plus salads, side orders and desserts. Nothing fancy here, but then, English food is meant to be eaten, not discussed. ($)

EVOS, 609 S. Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-3867 (check the telephone book for other locations). This casual eatery serves healthful burgers, wraps, fries and smoothies. Bite into the vegetarian soft taco and you'll get a flavorful serving of ground soy. Soy also is served up in the All-American Champ, a quarter-pound, charbroiled soy burger. Potato slivers are tossed in hot air, vastly reducing the fat content. Salmon shows up in a sandwich patty served with low-cal dill spread, as well as a wrap stuffed with basmati rice and grilled onions and peppers. ($)

LA CREPERIA CAFE, 1729 E. Seventh Ave., Ybor City; (813) 248-9700. This European-style bistro proves you can stuff crepes with more than fruit and cream and turn them into a delicious meal. Some of the best combinations include the Jambalaya with shrimp, sausage, caramelized onions, green peppers, garlic and Tabasco; and the Turkey a la Brie, packed with roasted turkey, creamy Brie and tomatoes. If crepes don't tempt you, try the baguette or panini sandwiches, salads and pasta dishes. More than two dozen crepes are offered for dessert. Or, you can create your own. ($$)

LONNI'S SANDWICHES, ETC., 513 E. Jackson St., Tampa; (813) 223-2333. Lonni's pleases lunch crowds with giant sandwiches on wild-rice bread. Choices include Mango Breeze (brie, avocado, sprouts and chutney), Albuquerque Turkey (with Gouda, turkey and chipotle sauce), Curried Tropical Chicken Salad and others. ($)

ZUDAR'S, 201 W. Platt St., Tampa; (813) 250-6272. Marc and Didi Zudar specialize in the humble and hearty sandwich and their lunch menu combos are belly-busters. We recommend the Turkey Pride, a thin-sliced breast with Thousand Island dressing, ripe tomatoes, bacon and provolone on pumpernickel. Another favorite is the West Coast, made with a creamy chicken salad and slices of fresh avocado, Gouda cheese and bacon. The kitchen cooks up flavorful deep-dish quiches: Lorraine, Chicken Portobello, Spinach-Tomato and Crab Artichoke. Huge salads include a Chef, Greek, Cobb and Garden Veggie - all big enough to split between two people. The Coconut Cream Pie is chock-full of fresh-grated coconut stuffed into a homemade pastry crust. ($)

MEL'S HOT DOGS, 4136 E. Busch Blvd., Tampa; (813) 985-8000. The hot dog is as much a part of life as breathing air, and Mel's - quite frankly - is king. Mel's dogs are created by Chicago's Vienna Beef Company from kosher-style whole beef cuts and contain no chicken, pork or soy bean. The beef is slowly smoked, so the casing "pops" when bitten into. Highly recommended is the Mighty Mel Hot Dog, a quarter-pound tuber on a poppy seed bun complemented with piquant relish, mustard and thinly sliced pickles. The basket includes a very good and generous portion of French fries, and wholesome-tasting coleslaw or oven-baked beans. ($)

PANE RUSTICA BAKERY & CAFE, 3225 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 902-8828. This quaint South Tampa eatery continues to bake a reputation, and its dinner menu adds to the mix. Pastas are a specialty, such as the Giant Open Faced Seafood Ravioli. Good choices include Cedar Roasted Salmon, spinach and chicken lasagna, pan-seared Filet Medallions, and stuffed Quail and Sausage. Be sure to check out the flatbread pizzas. ($-$$)

PANERA BREAD, 11878 Bruce B. Downs Blvd., Tampa, (813) 866-9333 (check the telephone book for other locations). This European-style eatery offers an array of baked goods, sandwiches, soups and salads. Panera, which means bakery in Italian, offers a dozen specialty breads, including Asiago Cheese, Fiesta, Sun-Dried Tomato, French Strip and Sourdough. Grilled panini sandwiches include the Cuban Pork & Ham, with smoked pork tenderloin, sliced ham, Swiss cheese, chipotle mayonnaise and mustard on Asiago Cheese Focaccia; and the Fontega Chicken, with smoked, pulled white-meat chicken, red onion, mozzarella cheese, tomato, basil and chipotle on Rosemary & Onion Focaccia. Danishes, croissants, muffins, strudels, scones and a variety of flavored bagels are among the fresh-baked items found in the display case. ($)

PINK FLAMINGO CAFE, 304 E. Davis Blvd., Tampa; (813) 251-2928. Breakfast starts at 7 a.m. on weekdays and includes about a dozen gut-busters. On the rich side is the Crab Cake Benedict, which replaces the traditional Canadian bacon with crab, and comes with home fries, hash browns or grits. Typical lunch specials are a tasty Broccoli and Chicken Alfredo Pasta, made with a buttery sauce that lingers over the florets and angel hair. The Spinach and Artichoke Quesadilla comes with a pair of crisp tortillas stuffed with sauteed spinach leaves, diced 'chokes, aromatic basil, garlic, tomatoes and Parmesan and mozzarella. Sandwich choices include the delicious Grilled Island Club. ($)

RUBEN'S CUBANS, 4941 E. Busch Blvd., Temple Terrace; (813) 989-2178. This friendly neighborhood deli and cafe specializes in sandwiches and hearty Latin fare at reasonable prices. In addition to its namesake, you'll also find roast pork, corned beef, ham and Swiss, roast beef, turkey club, Reuben, pastrami, steak, meatball, B.L.T., tuna, egg and ham salad. Entrees include tasty platters of yellow rice, black beans and plantains with a choice of roast pork, picadillo, palomilla steak or lemon pepper chicken. ($)

SCHILLER'S DELI, 4327 El Prado Blvd., Tampa; (813) 839-6666. This German deli ranks high for simplicity and freshness in its sandwiches. Favorites include the Reuben, with fine quality sauerkraut and corned beef; the Bavarian, with Black Forest ham and Swiss; and the Schiller's U-Boat, with its variety of German cold cuts. ($)

SWEET TOMATOES, 1902 N. Dale Mabry, Tampa, (813) 874-6566 (check the telephone book for other locations). Sweet Tomatoes sets the standard for salad bars. Wonton Chicken Salad and Caesar Salad greet diners at the door. Ginger livens up the Wonton Chicken Salad, and the Caesar's romaine is crisp and flavorful. There's Tuna Tarragon, tuna and penne pasta in a creamy tarragon dressing; Carrot and Raisin Salad, sweet and fresh; Barbecue Potato Salad, smoky and chunky; and classic Three-Bean Salad. ($)

WOODY'S FAMOUS GREEK SALADS AND GOURMET SANDWICHES, 1722 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 254-2806. This South Tampa eatery specializes in deli sandwiches, homemade soups and an array of salads. Sandwiches include the Festivale (turkey breast on a toasted croissant with cranberry sauce, mayo, lettuce and cucumbers) and the Bleu Max (rare roast beef with a blue cheese sauce, garnished with lettuce, tomato, cucumber and sweet onion). In the mood for roughage? Try the Famous Greek, with lettuce, Greek potato salad, tomatoes, cucumbers, Greek olives, peppers, feta cheese, shrimp, beet, radish and scallion with Greek vinaigrette. ($)

WRIGHT'S GOURMET HOUSE, 1200 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 253-3838. The place to pick up desserts when you want people to think they're homemade. In addition to concocting the yummiest sweets this side of heaven, this crew whips up one of the best Cuban sandwiches anywhere. Hot entrees, served cafeteria style, add to a slate of sandwiches that are standouts for their fresh ingredients. Not cheap, but worth the investment. ($-$$)

VIETNAMESE

BAMBOOZLE CAFE, 516 N Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-7320. Bamboozle Cafe adds Vietnamese cuisine to the city center's lunchtime landscape, giving downtown office workers a fresh, healthful and exotic alternative to the usual deli fare. Fresh rolls - meats and veggies wrapped in translucent rice paper - are made to order and, in our experience, with a delicate touch. Traditional noodle salads and giant bowls of Pho soup are also good bets. ($)

INDOCHINOIS, 3324 Gandy Blvd., Tampa; (813) 831-3432. If you've never tried Vietnamese cuisine before, here's a place to start, with a brief, uncomplicated menu of mostly successful, mildly spiced dishes. Try such classics as Pho, the hearty meal-in-bowl soup with beef tenderloin and rice noodles, or Bun Thit Nuong, a bowl of barbecue pork and cold noodles dressed with mint leaves and a slightly sweet sauce. The portions are light but so is the hit to your wallet, so be prepared to order multiple starters and entrees to satisfy the big appetites in your party. ($-$$)

RESTAURANT BT, 1633 W. Snow Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-1916. No discussion about restaurants in Tampa can exclude B.T. Nguyen-Batley's masterpiece of French-Vietnamese cuisine in Hyde Park Village, where a regal menu marries a sophisticated atmosphere. Nguyen-Batley has created an exotic and undulating landscape in food, each dish energized by earthy ingredients and finished off with an artist's brush. We don't need to recommend any one entree because the entire menu stands out. ($$-$$$)

SAIGON BAY, 2373 E. Fowler Ave., Tampa; (813) 971-0854. The former Lemongrass delivers cordial service and a moderately priced menu of Vietnamese family fare, much of it anchored in noodles or rice. Consider a steaming bowl of seafood soup, Pho Do Bien, and if appetite permits, the bananas flambe dessert, served over coconut ice cream. ($)

TRANG VIET CUISINE 1524 E. FOWLER AVE., TAMPA; (813) 979-1464. While this family-owned spot may need a makeover - a faded mix of "Miami Vice" pastels make it feel a bit out of date - its dishes are classic, timeless and delicious. From Curry Chicken (Ca Ri Ga), to Noodle Stir-Fry to Steamed Buns (Banh Bao), the food is tasty and satisfying. A favorite among vegetarians, Trang is accommodating with many flesh-free alternatives, including tofu and faux-meat versions of most dishes. This is a family-friendly restaurant that won't empty your wallet. ($)

Feeder's Digest is a weekly compendium of Bay area restaurants visited anonymously and recommended by Tribune restaurant critics. Prices are per couple for three courses, with a glass of wine each (where applicable) before tip and taxes.

$ means $30 or less

$$ means $30 to $60

$$$ means more than $60

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