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Discover Delicious Hands-On Dining

Tribune photo by MICHAEL SPOONEYBARGER

Meals at Queen of Sheba are served family-style, with a variety of meats and vegetables sharing space on one big, communal injera.

By ROMMIE JOHNSON | The Tampa Tribune

Published: April 2, 2009

Updated: 04/02/2009 03:33 pm

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TAMPA - There's something about eating with your hands that brings people together. Maybe it's just that it's impossible to feel uppity when you have butter dripping down your arm, and equally impossible to feel shame about it when you discover your dining companion's hands are smeared with spices.

Or maybe it's just that it's so much fun.

Whatever the case, Ethiopians - with the wisdom of one of the world's oldest civilizations - know this better than anyone, and their traditional cuisine encourages it. Ethiopian food is known for spicy vegetable and meat dishes served atop injera - flat, spongy bread that you tear off in pieces and use to scoop up bites of the meal.

Tampa went eight years without being graced by this unique East African culture, but in the past 15 months we've seen two Ethiopian restaurants pop up not far from one another. Abol Bunna opened on Kennedy late last year, but Queen of Sheba came first, reminding intrepid Tampa diners how enjoyable these exotic eats can be.

Stepping inside, the first intoxicating whiff of incense and spices lets you know you've crossed a cultural and culinary border. Walls are adorned with traditional Ethiopian prints, crafts, textiles and instruments. The decor, warm lighting and hospitality make you feel like you're a guest in someone's home.

One night we arrived ridiculously late, but were welcomed anyway by a staff that graciously stayed open late so we could finish our meal at our leisure. On another visit, the African music was turned up and the servers - clad in traditional Ethiopian coffee dresses - performed an impromptu dance to a delighted audience.

Which probably goes a long way toward explaining why service is the only potential pitfall during a visit here. While the staff is unfailingly friendly, the kitchen can seem slow, details may be overlooked (we had to ask for napkins) and orders are occasionally forgotten (an appetizer never arrived, but - to their credit - they were mortified when we pointed this out and offered to bring it out late at no charge).

Even so, all is forgiven when your server lifts the cover off a decorative messob-style serving basket to reveal its aromatic bounty. Ethiopian meals are traditionally served family-style, with a variety of meats and vegetables sharing space on one big, communal injera.

A good place to start your meal is with the spicy Beef Sambussa. One of four appetizers (there are two hot and two cold), the warm, thin, homemade bread is hand-wrapped and stuffed with a blend of minced beef, fresh garlic, onions, peppers, ginger and parsley.

Among entrees, our favorite may be the Queen's Lamb Tibs, boneless leg of lamb chunks sauteed with spices, rosemary and green peppers. The chicken tibs, prepared in a similar fashion, are a milder alternative. Both were moist, tender and flavorful.

We also love the Kitfo, finely chopped beef that gets its kick from a blend of spices and nitr kibbeh, an aromatic, seasoned, clarified butter used in Ethiopian cooking. If you're not too wimpy, order it "traditional" (i.e., raw); otherwise, they're happy to cook it to order.

Other options include traditional Wots (Ethiopian stew) and a plethora of meat-free dishes, which have earned Queen of Sheba a deserved following among the vegetarian crowd.

The restaurant's wine list features a small but interesting selection of mostly South African offerings. Non-alcoholic options include a traditional hot tea - called Yekemem Shai - which is redolent with cinnamon, cardamom and cloves.

Whatever you order, be sure to save room for the injera blanketing the bottom of your plate. After it soaks up the variety of sauces and juices, it may be the most delicious part of the meal.

Sure, they'll bring you a fork if you ask. But don't.