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Sukhothai not just another Thai

Tribune photo by JULIE BUSCH

The entree menu provides an extensive list of dishes for chicken, duck, beef, pork and seafood, including this Sukhothai Chicken. Entrees are spiced to your taste, from mild to "Thai hot."

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By MARY PATRICK | The Tampa Tribune

Published: April 16, 2009

TAMPA - Yes, it's a little odd that North Dale Mabry Highway is home to so many good Thai restaurants, from Thai Terrace to Jasmine Thai and Thai Sweet Basil. Although it's interesting to wonder exactly how that happened, the bottom line is this: Lucky you, north Tampa residents.

Of all the Thai restaurants along the busy stretch of road, perhaps none surpasses Sukhothai for combining excellent food with a fun, intimate atmosphere. (This review, it should be noted, pertains only to the Sukhothai location on North Dale Mabry, not the other location in New Tampa, which we did not visit).

The location is among the most unassuming we've encountered, located in a strip center next to the Alltel store and near a bowling alley. The front door and windows are all tinted darkly, so you might find yourself surprised to enter a space that seems a little like a sports bar: a television on in one corner showing a game, lots of wood, a long walkway leading to a station where the courteous staff will seat you.

You can choose to sit in this part of the restaurant, or you can go up a short flight of stairs into the main dining room, where patrons take off their shoes and sit on cushions. We, of course, chose this room, and you'll be relieved to know that under each table is a small, carpeted pit where you can place your feet. No need to sit "crisscross apple sauce" for your entire meal.

We started with the Thai spring rolls, which contained fresh vegetables wrapped in a rice paper that was then fried, and served with duck sauce and mustard. The appetizer menu also contains Pak-Pao (calamari with peanut and tamarind sauce), "stick chick" (marinated chicken on skewers) and boneless chicken wings stuffed with pork mushrooms and water chestnuts. There's a combination platter if you can't decide.

The spring rolls were good, but we'd recommend one of the restaurant's soups, particularly the Thomka, which is spicy chicken broth with lemongrass and coconut cream. The texture is silky, and the soup's spices provide an interesting counterpoint to the coconut cream. This soup is a perfect example of how all the restaurant's soups boast a complexity of flavors. Another excellent soup choice is the Thom Yum, basically the Thomka without the coconut cream, in which the lemongrass is more prevalent and lends a nice citrus note to the dish.

The entree menu provides an extensive list of dishes for chicken, duck, beef, pork and seafood. You'll want to pay attention when your server asks about the spice content - it ranges from mild to hot to "Thai hot." There's a very big difference.

On the recommendation of our friendly and attentive waiter, we tried the spiced pork medallion dish with brown rice. The pork - which had been marinated in lemongrass, garlic and cilantro - arrived almost fork tender and in a spicy curry sauce. We highly recommend this as an introductory dish for those trying Thai food for the first time. While the pork will be familiar, the herbs and spices so often used in Thai cooking will have you tasting it in a whole new way.

We also tried the Lobster Nam Dang, which was served with a lobster tail in the center of the plate and pieces of shrimp surrounding it, all served in a red, almost sweet, wine sauce. Other people in the restaurant who were regulars (and very talkative) said the dish is the best the restaurant offers, and it did not disappoint, although a little of the sauce goes a long way.

The Thai staple - Pad Thai - was excellent (and is also a good place to start for newbies). The noodles and bits of egg came with chicken, crushed peanuts and just a hint of lemon. It's delicious and a must-have for those wanting to try Thai. The more adventurous might try the Spicy Thai Noodles, which offered noodles and lean beef over crispy Romaine lettuce and bean sprouts, which offered a nice range of textures, all mixed with a spicy lime sauce.

We finished with a cheesecake that was adequate though not great, but at that point we were so enchanted with the place we didn't care.

There is no children's menu, but there were plenty of youngsters in the restaurant on a recent Saturday night, as well as tables with couples and groups of friends. The atmosphere was laid back and the staff consistently cheerful and helpful.

Having so many good Thai restaurants along one stretch of road seems to have bred competition and quality. Take advantage.

Sukhothai Restaurant

BOTTOM LINE: Top-notch Thai food in a fun, intimate setting.

WHERE: 8201-A N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Friday; 5 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday and Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

ALCOHOL: Wine, sake and beer

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $10.25 to $29

CALL: (813) 933-7990

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@fridayextra.com.

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