Welcome to TBO.com. Skip directly to: our Keyword Search, Section Navigation, Content.

TBO.com - TBO is Tampa Bay Online

Dining

TBO > Entertainment > Dining > Dining

Fine dining can also be fun dining

Tribune photo by JIM REED

The menu at Ocean Prime features Ahi Tuna Tartar and Colossal Shrimp Saute appetizers, as well as a Chilean Sea Bass entree served in Champange Truffle Sauce.

By ROMMIE JOHNSON | The Tampa Tribune

Published: April 23, 2009

Related Links

TAMPA - Upscale dining doesn't have to be stuffy and suffocating. It is possible, after all, to enjoy a high-end steak without the nagging anxiety that -- heaven forbid -- you might accidentally put your elbow on the table or use the wrong fork.

There may be no better place in the Tampa area to appreciate this culinary collusion of easygoing elegance than at Ocean Prime -- at least not this far from the beach.

Open since January, Ohio-based restaurateur Cameron Mitchell's Ocean Prime bills itself as "the modern American supper club," and in keeping with that theme, the place is hip, sophisticated and fun. It's also very loud.

Decked out in light cherry wood with black leather accents, the spacious bar and lounge is the heart of the restaurant, its high-energy buzz resonating throughout the 400-plus-seat dining rooms. Competing with the din, a singer tackles -- that's not a typo -- the ivories in the corner, pounding out swinging standards alongside throwaway pop hits. (We could've done without the Night Ranger, thank you.) The retro-modern decor, porthole windows and hints of Art Deco place this party somewhere between a Roaring '20s ocean liner and South Beach's Ocean Drive.

At a place like this, cocktails aren't just offered, they're encouraged. Inspired options include a refreshing Cucumber Gimlet and a so-hip-it-hurts Sea Salt Caramel Martini. The wine list is extensive and varied with an emphasis on American varietals, all priced -- as in most restaurants -- at a considerable markup.

And then there's the food.

Ocean Prime's name says it all. This kitchen's focus is on high-end surf 'n' turf. Without exception, we found the seafood and steaks to be elegant but accessible, expertly prepared without all the unnecessary fussiness that can sometimes make fine dining feel pretentious.

From a mouthwatering list of starters, we chose the Sonoma Goat Cheese Ravioli and loved how its tart white filling was complemented perfectly by the subtle nutty flavor of wild mushrooms. We were also impressed with the ridiculously fresh, clean-tasting Ahi Tuna Tartar -- recommended by our server -- which was spiked with a sweet-and-spicy ginger ponzu sauce and given texture by a bed of avocado and crunchy rice noodles.

Entrees were equally delicious.

The moist and tender Chilean Sea Bass took on an air of decadence in its silky and fragrant champagne truffle sauce, dotted with glazed carrots. The seared tuna, perfectly cooked with soy butter sauce and tangerine spinach salad, was typical of Ocean Prime's hearty portions.

Steaks, naturally, are prime cuts. We ordered our 18-ounce ribeye medium rare, and the kitchen didn't falter, delivering it to the table with a warm red center. The texture was perfect but the flavor was mild, especially for a ribeye, which may be because of the fact that -- except for the Kansas City Strip -- Ocean Prime's steaks are wet aged. That probably explains the array of toppings, available, including black truffle butter and green peppercorn cognac sauce.

If you're put off by a la carte menus, you'll find it hard to swallow an $11 serving of macaroni and cheese, but we assure you the deliciously earthy hints of black truffle are totally worth it. Even better were the Maytag bleu cheese whipped potatoes, comparatively a steal at $9 -- the only thing bigger than their flavor may be the restaurant's unwieldy menus.

Desserts have a high bar to clear, but do so nimbly. Full as we were, we had no trouble devouring the Chocolate Peanut Butter Pie -- rich peanut butter mousse dipped in a bittersweet chocolate ganache. We struggled a bit with the moist, towering Ten Layer Carrot Cake, but only because it was so tall it nearly toppled over every time we tried to take a bite.

Our waiter was knowledgeable and friendly, and when we tested his recommendations for both food and wine pairings, he came through every time. Of course, service should be top-notch at these prices.

And, make no mistake, the check at Ocean Prime matches the posh setting. For special occasions and corporate expense accounts, though, it's tough to beat.