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Get on board for a righteous burrito bite

Tribune photo by JIM REED

Burrito Boarder touts its food as natural, hormone-free, zero trans-fat and organic.

By JAMIE PILARCZYK

Published: April 30, 2009

Updated: 04/30/2009 10:58 am

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ST. PETERSBURG - Move over, Moe's. There's a new burrito joint in town.

Tucked into one of downtown's eclectic storefronts, Burrito Boarder opened its doors in September. The eatery's name plays off a skate/surf/snow boarder theme, catering to an alternative crowd that's into adventure sports.

Surfboards line the walls of the small restaurant, where a walk-up, name-it-as-you-want-it counter serves ideal on-the-go food. Although the crowd skews young, you can also expect a smattering of tourists and the occasional retiree. The local skaters hanging out at the sidewalk tables gave the place a hint of authenticity.

The late-night bar crowd keeps Burrito Boarder bustling after dark. The dining room stays open until at least midnight, and then the place shifts to a walk-up window until 2:30 a.m., where night owls can grab take-out to scarf down while sipping Belgian beers at the Independent next door.

The Boarder is quite similar to other franchises in town, but we were impressed with the staff, who seemed to know their customers as well as their ingredients. Between commiserating with patrons about their hangovers and the party they attended the night before, they shared thorough knowledge of the product.

That white, milky drink next to the soda fountain? It's horchata, a sweet rice water flavored with almonds and cinnamon.

What's in this salsa? It's called Green Flash and it's made with tomatillos and jalapenos.

What do you recommend on the fish tacos? For the line-caught mahi-mahi, try the mango tango salsa, queso fresco and coleslaw. (He was right - it was a delicious combination.)

Once customers wait their turn in line (and on our Saturday afternoon trip, the wait was longer than we expected - probably 20 minutes with about six people ahead of us), they have choices to make.

First, you select a burrito, burrito-less bowl, salad, tacos, wraps, quesadillas or nachos.

Next is the meat choice: adobo chicken, beef, carne asada, carnitas (spicy pulled pork) or grilled fish. For vegetarians, rice or beans can substitute.

Then there are the toppings: pico de gallo, corn salsa, mango tango salsa, cheese, cilantro and the rest of the typical salad-like sundries.

Touting its food as natural, hormone-free, zero trans-fat and organic, Burrito Boarder even puts take-out orders in biodegradable boxes. We were impressed with that.

Although our crunchy tacos got a little mushy on the bottom, the burrito bombs were excellent: a chipotle tortilla stuffed with pico de gallo, carnitas (very fresh tasting pulled pork, void of the fatty lumps we've had at other Mexican restaurants), queso fresco and chipotle sour cream, which added just the right amount of heat without destroying the flavor.

The salad bowl we topped with a chipotle ranch vinaigrette was so good we dipped our chips in the leftover dressing.

For fun, there is a buffet of iced teas, from jasmine and mango to Jamaica, and a dark red, seriously sweet one made from Hibiscus flower.

If you have room for dessert, the soft, thick cookies - chocolate and macadamia nut - should send you over the top.

Burrito Boarder is already looking to expand to new locations (one in Pinellas and one possibly in Hillsborough County) and have sold a franchise in Wesley Chapel. So for those who don't like to make the trek across the bay, hang in there.