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Cantina Freshens Up Tex-Mex Traditions

Tribune photo by FRED BELLET

The menu at Cantina Laredo features creative Mexican dishes, such as Camaron Poblano Asada, a pepper stuffed with shrimp and wrapped in steak.

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By MARY PATRICK

Tribune correspondent

Published: February 19, 2009

WESLEY CHAPEL - It seems only fitting in The Shops at Wiregrass, which transformed a few acres in Wesley Chapel into an idyllic village of shops and attractive "spaces," that the resident Mexican restaurant provides something superior to the usual south-of-the-border fare.

Cantina Laredo is a chain restaurant, but it's not just another version of the Tex-Mex chains that popped up everywhere in the 1990s. The dishes are of a much higher quality, as are the ingredients. Although, beware; the prices are higher as well.

After a drive up Interstate 75 to the State Road 56 exit, Wiregrass is another mile or so to the east. If you haven't been, the "outdoor mall" is really a large cluster of restaurants and shops (including a two-story Barnes & Noble) surrounded by a parking lot, with an additional small parking garage.

Parking is extremely convenient. And once we walked up the little side street from the parking lot onto Wiregrass' main thoroughfare, we entered a world of tasteful lights and attractive landscaping.

Cantina Laredo is next door to the Brass Tap bar and just down the street from GrillSmith. The interior is a sleek, Southwestern chic design - lots of blond wood and leather booths.

Two of the most memorable dishes were delivered in the meal's first 10 minutes. To begin a meal, diners are given sterling silver bowls filled with chips and two types of salsa. Both were exceptional - a spicy selection and a mild, smoky alternative.

We then ordered one of the restaurant's signature dishes, the Top Shelf Guacamole. The waiter mixed a concoction of fresh avocados, tomatoes, red onion, diced jalapenos peppers and spices at our table. The dish proved delicious, with all the advantages of homemade guacamole (and the added benefit that you didn't have to make it yourself).

The menu includes the usual suspects from Mexican restaurants, such as fajitas, carnitas, tacos al carbon, chiles rellenos and enchiladas. We sampled quite a few of these on the Cantina Laredo Platter, which also included a tamale. Everything was solid if not spectacular, and the ingredients were, without fail, fresh.

A standout is the Camaron Poblano Asada, which features a poblano pepper stuffed with shrimp, mushrooms and Monterey jack cheese. Frankly, that alone would be a sublime mixture of the mild and spicy, but it comes wrapped in a generous cut of carne asada steak and is served on a bed of green chimichurri sauce. This is highly recommended, and competed with the guacamole for the best food served at our table.

For dessert, we sampled both the chocolate cake dessert and the apple-filled crepes. The former, which came with ice cream, was wonderful, while the latter just tasted bland.

The restaurant is very accommodating to children, with a separate menu that includes chicken fingers and corn dogs, but also nachos, quesadillas and baby back ribs for kids with more sophisticated palates.

Cantina Laredo provides Mexican fare a cut above the ordinary - and quite a few cuts above with some dishes. If you go, make sure to order the guacamole. But also be prepared to pay a bit more than you are used to at other Mexican chains.

DINING REVIEW

Cantina Laredo

BOTTOM LINE: Upscale chain serves solid - and occasionally exceptional - Mexican fare.

WHERE: The Shops at Wiregrass, 2000 Piazza Ave., Wesley Chapel

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday, Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: No

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE RANGE: $12 to $27 per entree

CALL: (813) 907-3068

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@ fridayextra.com.

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