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Will Work For Oysters

It's worth some effort to savor the flavor

Photo by JADEN HAIR

Unlike jarred horseradish and cocktail sauce, this Asian Mignonette recipe doesn't mask the delicate taste of the raw oysters and clams.

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Jaden Hair

Published: January 26, 2009

I'm what you call a "food adventurist." If it's stinky, weird or wiggling, I'll want to eat it. If you've ever watched Anthony Bourdain or Andrew Zimmern on location in Asia, I'm sure you know what that means.

Here in Tampa Bay, I don't get to exercise my food curiosity as much; though at times, when I'm staring at that massive Angry Whopper at Burger King, I wonder what really goes into that thing.

I'm also known to get super excited when I find a package of chicken feet at Publix. Yes, Publix had one lonely package of naked chicken feet in their meat case a few months ago. It was a mighty risky move for mister meat guy to place that package in plain view of customers. So tickled was I that I grabbed the package, put it right by the chicken breasts, and just stood there for five minutes waiting to see people's reaction. Two "eeeewwwws," two "gross!" and one expletive. Heh. My single most favorite day at the market ever.

For most normal people (i.e. not demented like myself), raw oysters and clams are considered pretty adventurous eats. Normally, I only eat raw oysters and clams at raw bars, leaving the hard work of prying open the rock-hard mouth to trained professionals more patient and deft than I. But, last week, I couldn't resist. At Fresh Market, my inner daredevil kicked in, and I need to conquer the shell. It didn't hurt that 4-year old, Nathan, was in the shopping cart asking, "Mommy, how come we can't buy oysters?"

What was I going to say, "Cuz Mommy can't open them"? I'm Nathan's superhero! How could Super Mom be defeated by a 3-inch tight-lipped marine mollusk?

As Yoda would say, "Do. Or do not. There is no try." OK, fine. I do.

Nathan picked out each oyster and then chose not the cute, itty, bitty Littleneck clams, but the mammoth 4-inch Cherrystone clams. Words cannot describe the debacle as I opened a dozen of each. That pointy, thick knife with the big wooden handle called an oyster knife? Useless. Thinking back to the coconut opening catastrophe I experienced last year, I headed to the garage to find my husband's tools.

A hammer, chisel and the Vise-Grip in the garage didn't even crack the thing. Power drill, level and wire cutter? Nada. Even the Jedi force was no match for these guys.

I finally admitted defeat and recruited my husband (after I tiptoed back from the garage and put his tools back exactly where they were).

Oh, and do NOT ask me about that one clam in the photo that is unopened.

RAW BAR WITH ASIAN MIGNONETTE

John, the seafood dude at Fresh Market, tells me that the best way to determine whether an oyster or clam is fresh, alive and well is to knock 'em. Specifically, knock two against each other or one against the counter. If they sound hollow, throw 'em away. Also, oysters and clams should be closed super-tight. (Um. YEAH. I know.) When you get home, grab two bowls, one that fits inside the other. Put the oysters and clams in the smaller bowl. Fill the larger bowl with ice and put the smaller bowl inside, on top of the ice. Refrigerate. According to John, if stored properly, they'll last for a few days like that. But I always go by the rule of eating them same day or next day.

I'm not a fan of the traditional jarred horseradish and cocktail sauce, mainly because those strong flavors mask the delicate taste of the raw oysters and clams. Jim, owner of the Lucky Pelican in Sarasota, gave me his secret Asian Mignoette. Many thanks to him. If you don't have seasoned or sweetened rice vinegar, use the unseasoned rice vinegar and add a pinch of sugar.

1 dozen fresh oysters in shell

1 dozen fresh clams in shell

1 dozen extra-large cooked shrimp

FOR THE ASIAN MIGNONETTE

1 teaspoon water

2 tablespoons sweetened (seasoned) rice vinegar

1/4 teaspoon red peppercorns

1 teaspoon finely minced ginger

1 teaspoon finely minced shallots

1/4 teaspoon whole coriander seeds (optional)

In a small bowl, whisk together the Asian Mignonette ingredients. Set aside while you carefully shuck the oysters and clams. Serve the Asian Mignonette, shrimp, oysters and clams on a bed of crushed ice.

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Check out Jaden's blog at www.steamykitchen.com.

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