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Winning Wings: Kick Your Party Up A Notch

Tribune photo by MICHAEL SPOONEYBARGER

Some like them hot; others not so much. But they all agreed on the best wings in this taste test.

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By KIM FRANKE-FOLSTAD

The Tampa Tribune

Published: January 28, 2009

Remember way back in 2005, when they announced that Super Bowl XLIII would be in Tampa?

You knew then you'd never actually get into RayJay for the game, but you vowed you'd contribute to the hometown hoopla with the mother of all Super Bowl parties.

You bought a big-screen. You invited a big crowd. And you promised a big-time menu.

Then you did nothing.

Now Super Bowl Sunday is here, and you are still without a plan.

Well, we're here to help you wing it … literally.

Tampa Bay area restaurants are famous for their chicken wings — a staple of any Super Bowl party —and we went to six of the finest to put their takeout to a taste test.

We asked a panel of Tribune reporters, all of whom know a thing or two about eating wings, to give us the Buffalowdown. Their conclusion (after much finger-licking and lip-smacking): There is no such thing as a bad chicken wing!

However, if forced to choose a favorite, they advise true connoisseurs to flock to Beef O'Brady's, which has locations scattered across the Tampa Bay area.

The Contenders

All wings were takeout and all were ordered Buffalo-style, medium. Almost all came with celery and bleu cheese. The judges, however, ate their wings without bleu cheese and, to their chagrin, without beer.

Beef O'Brady's, 2819 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa; 20 wings for $14.23

The judges said Beef's wings had more flavor and more meat than the others they tested. All of the wings smelled fantastic, but these were especially mouth-watering. There was an ample amount of sauce, and they were spicier than the rest. "They're a little fatty," said food writer Jeff Houck (our most finicky judge). But he agreed with the other judges that they were the tastiest of the lot.

Wild Wing Café, 9210 Anderson Road, Tampa; 20 wings for $19.88

"Uneventful," was sports columnist Joe Henderson's take on these wings. "Bland," agreed fashion writer Cloe Cabrera. They found that much of the sauce had migrated to the bottom of the container, and when re-sauced, the wings were quite good.

Hooters, 615 Channelside Drive, Tampa; 20 wings for $14.99

If you like your wings breaded and a little greasy, Hooters is your place. If you don't, well ... "You taste more breading than chicken," said TV writer Walt Belcher. The judges found the Hooters wings to be a bit bland. "These are medium?" Houck asked. "Wow, that's disappointing." He did note that they had a "little bit of a kick at the finish." "Maybe they taste better with beer," sports writer Katherine Smith said.

Buffalo Wild Wings Grill & Bar, 4058 Tampa Road, Oldsmar; 24 wings for $16.58

The ladies liked the "presentation" of the Buffalo Wild Wings, which came in a round container rather than the standard Styrofoam box. All of the judges enjoyed the spiciness, and they commented on the tenderness of the meat. Houck found the skin a tad rubbery and the sauce "ketchup-y," but Cabrera liked the sauce.

WingHouse, 8001 W. Hillsborough Ave., Tampa; 20 wings for $16.97

The WingHouse wings had a sweeter flavor than the rest; the judges agreed they tasted like there was honey in the recipe. "Wings shouldn't be sweet. Wings should be hot," Henderson said. Cabrera preferred the sweet taste and said for her, WingHouse wings were a close second to Beef O'Brady's. Houck said they were a little greasy. Belcher liked the size. "The NFL would drug test these wings," Smith said.

The Press Box, 222 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; 20 wings for $14.97

The judges thought The Press Box wings smelled spicy, but some found them a bit bland. Smith and Henderson thought they had a little kick. "A Martin Gramatica kick," Henderson said.

OUR PANEL:

Joe Henderson, sports columnist

Drummie or wing: Wing

Wing philosophy: My main thing is it can't be too greasy. I don't go for the uber-hot wings, either, and I don't like heavy sauce. I guess I'm a minimalist. If I'm out with a group watching sports or something, I'll go for wings then — usually at Beef's (in beautiful Brandon). I have to watch it, though. They're like M&Ms. The more you eat, the more you want.

Jeff Houck, food writer

Drummie or wing: Drummie

Wing philosophy: I like grilled wings that have a balance between the chicken and sauce flavors. Too much of one or the other is not good. Scorching my taste buds with spicy sauce isn't good, either; I can't stand to eat any more because my taste buds have been nuked and it usually tells me the cook is trying to overcompensate for something. Rubbery, undercooked chicken is just nasty.

Walt Belcher, TV writer

Drummie or wing: Drummie

Wing philosophy: I like my wings firm and not too greasy — hot enough to make me cry but not scorch my taste buds. I am always on the hunt for the best wing so I try a lot of new places. I get a wing fix at least once a week. Faves include The Wing Stop, Beef's, Hattricks and Quaker Steak and Lube.

Katherine Smith, sports writer

Drummie or wing: Wing

Wing philosophy: My wing philosophy is actually quite simple. I like spicy. If I'm going out for wings, which is about once a month, I usually head to Beef O'Brady's. I grew up in Brandon and would frequent the original Beef's. It's where I was introduced to wings, and I think their sauce sets the standard. And with all due respect to popular wing hangouts Hooters and WingHouse, while I'm sure they are fine establishments, I prefer my wings without breasts.

Cloe Cabrera, fashion writer

Drummie or wing: Drummie

Wing philosophy: When it comes to wings it's about taste, texture and tang. I prefer my wings naked — you can taste the real flavor of the chicken — or with a little breading or coating. The skin has to be crispy, not rubbery, and the sauce has to leave my taste buds feeling warm and tingly, not scorched. And frankly, I prefer a meaty drumette to a wing any day. It's too much work for just a sliver of wing meat.

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