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Dining review: Take a smoke break at Jaymer-Que

Tribune photo by MICHAEL SPOONEYBARGER

Jaymer-Que's baby back ribs don't exactly fall off the bone, but they're tender and juicy, and the baked beans were a hit.

By SHANNON BEHNKEN | The Tampa Tribune

Published: July 1, 2009

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VALRICO - From the moment you step out of the car, the aroma of smoking meat beckons, promising something special.

Jaymer-Que, located at the corner of Bloomingdale Avenue and Lithia Pinecrest Road, is nestled within a shopping plaza (near Albertson's). It's the kind of place that relies on word-of-mouth recommendations.

It takes just one meal to understand why regulars keep the staff busy.

The meats — all smoked on-site — are prepared with dry rubs only. In fact, Jaymer, for whom the restaurant is named, says none of the meats need sauce.

However, for those who can't eat barbecue without it, there are three kinds left on tables: mild, sweet and hot, which we didn't find all that hot. Everyone in our group had a favorite, although we didn't agree on which was best.

The no-frills restaurant is in the former location of a Quiznos sub shop, so inside seating is scarce. The owners try to compensate by offering picnic tables and patio furniture outside. The result is a true family dining atmosphere.

Food is ordered cafeteria-style. The staff seemed a bit overwhelmed with the dinner crowd, but they were very helpful and made good suggestions.

We found the pulled pork dinner plate delicious. The extremely generous pile of pork had a pink tint — a sign that it was smoked and not steamed. It was devoid of any fat because the meat is pulled by hand and all tough pieces are discarded.

The classic sides include baked beans, coleslaw, potato salad, smoked green beans, garlic mashed potatoes and collards.

We found the mashed potatoes creamy and fresh, tasting like an old family recipe. Other hits were the homemade French fries, baked beans and green beans.

The half rack of baby back ribs weren't exactly fall-off-the-bone, but they were tender and so juicy that they tasted better without extra sauce.

We tried Jaymer-Que's signature barbecue salad with smoked chicken. The generous helping of chicken was tender and turned the salad into a real meal.

Other selections include beef brisket, beef ribs, pulled chicken, chicken breasts and chicken wings. Also, the 10-oz. "Butt-load" hamburger is a popular order among regulars.

We were impressed with the $2.99 kids menu. The little one in our group chose mac 'n' cheese and a cup of milk. It came with a fruit cup and two small bags of Teddy Grahams and Cheese-It crackers. Anyone with kids knows this is a bargain.

We barely had room left for dessert (which isn't on the menu), but we just had to try the chocolate cake we spotted at the counter. It was a bit dry but the rich chocolate icing was yummy. Our little one also chose a gigantic peanut butter cookie, which provided three days worth of after-dinner rewards.

Jaymer-Que is a visibly Christian restaurant. Owners Jaymer and Cyndi Holcombe strategically placed photos of crosses on flyers advertising mission trips, and a cross is even on the menu.

Jaymer says that's because God opened the door three years ago for the professional Information Technology guru to turn his passion for cooking into a restaurant.

The success spilled over next door — literally. The couple opened Ms. Cyndi's Corner Café, where they use their smoked meat for sandwiches. The two restaurants share food and resources. They also do quite a bit of catering.

One drawback — and it's a small one — is the hours. Jaymer-Que closes every night at 8 p.m. We found that a little frustrating on Friday and Saturday nights, when families tend to eat later.