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Dining review: Hunger goes up in smoke at Smokin A's BBQ

Tribune photo by JULIE BUSCH

On the Smokin A's menu, meat is king. Customers can choose from a selection of sausage, chicken, barbecue pork, beef brisket, ribs and hamburgers.

By MARY PATRICK | The Tampa Tribune

Published: June 9, 2009

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TAMPA - The true barbecue traditionalist will find much to like about Smokin A's BBQ in North Tampa.

Rather than go with the recent trend to make barbecue more upscale — we could mention a restaurant or two, but you know what we mean — this place is a no-frills, family-run affair where serious carnivores can find a safe haven.

Located in the Fountain Oaks Business Park on the corner of Waters Avenue and north Dale Mabry (behind Albertson's, if you get lost), Smokin A's is too nice to be called a "local dive" — although that's high praise — but it's also far from fancy-pants.

Let's settle on "barbecue joint" — again, high praise.

Odds are, you'll meet the owners of Smokin A's during your time there, even if you're just dashing in for take-out. Hardworking owner Alex Russell cooks, cleans, takes orders and dishes up plates. His fiancée Heather also works the counter, where they prominently display a photo of their young daughters. The atmosphere is casual and friendly.

The decor is a bit eclectic. Bleached cattle skulls compete for your attention with photos of Andre the Giant. There are a dozen or so tables, although the folks who come in (many from nearby businesses and neighborhoods) seem often to take the food to go. There are three televisions, usually tuned into the day's biggest sporting event.

As for the menu, meat is king.

We started, as all intelligent carnivores do, with a slab of ribs. During our first visit, the ribs were tasty but a bit on the fatty side, although the amazing spice rub had us plowing through them, anyway. On a second visit, they were leaner and cooked to perfection.

You have three choices for sauce — the mild (we skipped it), the sweet (which was indeed sweet, with smoky accents), and hot (heavy on the pepper). We'd recommend the sweet.

The sausage was sinfully good, spicy and slow cooked, giving the meat time to render properly. The chicken was meaty and came with a nice smoked flavor. The family special is a bargain at $25 and includes four chicken leg quarters, a full slab of ribs, two large sides and four pieces of Texas toast.

Other meats include beef brisket, hamburgers and barbecue pork. Sides include the classics — baked beans, coleslaw, collard greens, thick steak fries, fried okra, tossed salad and mac 'n' cheese (the latter was one of our only disappointments). Appetizers include a seasonal gator basket, rib tips and delicious beer-battered onion rings.

Our little one loves ribs, but if yours still has a taste primarily for chicken strips and grilled cheese sandwiches, those are available, too. All kids' meals come with one side and a drink for $4.

Smokin' A's just celebrated its one-year anniversary this month, and they are still tinkering with the menu. Changes include offering dark-meat-only chicken and adding catfish and smoked mullet to the menu. They also offer party packs and catering service.