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Ultra-Hip Finally Steps Out In Tampa

Tribune photo by KATHY MOORE

The menu at Aquaknox includes Sauteed John Dory with lobster succotash and sweet corn broth.

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By RICHARD MULLINS | The Tampa Tribune

Published: March 5, 2009

TAMPA - Ladies, break out your best Paris Hilton cocktail dress. And gentlemen, grab that black jacket and pair of stylishly scuffed jeans.

Tampa has a beautiful, painfully hip new restaurant called Aquaknox.

It's a welcome thing, because for all of the city's beachfront space, it still lacked a high-end, super-social, over-the-top gourmet seafood restaurant. Miami has dozens. Shouldn't we have at least one?

Built into the ground floor of the new Westin hotel on Rocky Point, Aquaknox opened in January and puts to rest the idea that hotel restaurants are bland placeholders inflicted on stranded travelers.

While ostensibly focused on seafood, the restaurant in reality delivers a stunning ultra-lounge atmosphere, replete with glass wine vault, shiny chrome, booming nightclub music and constantly shifting lighting - one minute aqua blue, the next moment green, the next moment white. You won't be surprised to learn the other Aquaknox locations are in Atlanta and Las Vegas.

A few tips, right at the top: Wait until late March or April when the hotel should open its stunning rooftop lounge, which has one of Tampa Bay's finest views. People will propose marriage here - mark my words.

It's also worth noting that the restaurant switched executive chefs in late February, when sous chef Kevin Riley took over after his predecessor left to attend to family matters.

Also, call ahead and request (no, demand, I say) either a table next to the open kitchen to watch the cooking action, or one of the elevated booths. The booths are wrapped in a sheer curtain of shimmering metal chain, backlit like a sci-fi movie.

And one last item: Bring a fat wallet or corporate expense account. This is not inexpensive seafood. With appetizers, two entrees, desserts and drinks, you'll likely blast through the $100 barrier and leave it far behind.

We tried the prix fixe menu - $99 for two, gratuity not included - figuring it stood a good chance of displaying the kitchen's best offerings.

It kicked off with high gourmet: an appetizer of finely diced king salmon and Ahi tuna tartare, pressed into a yin/yang circle with dollop of crème fraiche and American caviar. It's just a taster-sized sample, meant for nibbling, but the flavors mixed well.

Next was lobster bisque, which we'll just call absolutely stunning. With crackers and a cocktail, you could have this as an incredible summer lunch. We also tried the crab cakes, which were light, fluffy and sweet. Maryland would be proud, if not envious.

For an extra nibbler, we picked a flatbread with smoked salmon threads and roasted onion strips. Again, wonderful, and a nice choice for a light lunch.

For one entree, we chose the swordfish, which was smaller than we'd hoped, and came on a gigantic white, square plate that seemed to say, "My, what a big plate - it must be gourmet." The fish lacked flavor compared to other items and seemed underwhelming.

To test the beef, we selected the filet mignon, which also seemed oddly lacking in flavor, yet with more gristle than usual.

Already orbiting the gourmet-o-sphere, we ordered a chocolate "volcano" plate for dessert, its warm round chocolate cake encasing a heavenly chocolate froth inside. With a cup of coffee or dessert wine, it's an event on its own.

All in all, it's worth sampling Aquaknox's solid - occasionally spectacular - menu. But if you show up in your finest just to sip a cocktail and hang with the pretty people, we'll understand. You've waited long enough.

DINING REVIEW

Aquaknox

BOTTOM LINE: Upscale dining in an ultra-lounge atmosphere

WHERE: 7627 Courtney Campbell Parkway (in the Westin Tampa Bay Airport), Tampa

HOURS: breakfast: 6 to 10 a.m. daily; lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily; dinner: 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees $18 to $39

CALL: (813) 675-8700

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Richard Mullins can be reached at (813) 259-7919.

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