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Cabaret A Welcome Addition To Ybor

By JOHN W. ALLMAN | The Tampa Tribune

Published: March 12, 2009

TAMPA - It's packed inside L'Olivier Restaurant and Cabaret as a huge Eiffel Tower replica blasts out bursts of strobe light and an array of provocatively dressed cancan girls moves across the stage in a blur of feathers and boas.

The lush environment - plush couches in the lounge, gorgeous curtains on every high window, ornate tables for dining - shows an eye for impeccable detail.

Stephanie Shippae, a towering female impersonator in heels and a beautiful gown, announces the upcoming main event: RuPaul, one of the world's most recognized drag queens.

The crowd - a mix of young and old, gay and straight - claps and shouts.

Words really fail the energy pulsing through the room as waiters refill champagne flutes and the hum of anticipation grows.

By the time RuPaul has finished a 45-minute set with two costume changes, showcasing tracks from her new album, "Champion," and favorites like "Supermodel (You Better Work)," L'Olivier has reached fever pitch.

It's all part of the plan for owners Olivier Cuevas and Mike Edmondson, who visited the Moulin Rouge in Paris and cabaret shows in New York City to gather ideas before opening their 5,300-square-foot restaurant in the heart of Ybor.

It's exactly the type of business that Ybor City, and Tampa, desperately needs.

There are two shows three nights a week, incorporating Vegas-style theatrics with cabaret songs, fire acts, can-can dancers, lip-synching female impersonators and bawdy humor. For those who don't want to dine, there is a spacious bar and lounge, with only a $10 cover to see the shows.

None of it would matter if the food at L'Olivier didn't rival the performances. And it does.

Be prepared, however: It's not cheap. A meal for two with entrees, wine and dessert can run about $100. Special events can cost more, but packages include a free bottle of champagne.

The entire menu comes from Cuevas' family in the south of France. He personally taught the kitchen staff how to prepare authentic French cuisine, and the results are impressive.

The house salad sets the tone. A mix of lettuce, fruit, cheese and vegetables, the blend of flavors grabs your attention, equal parts sweet and bitter.

We tried two different crepes. The La Provencale, filled with seasoned chicken, caramelized onions and roasted red peppers, is light but packs a slightly spicy kick. The La Saint-Paul de Vence, a hearty blend of bleu cheese, green apple slices and walnuts, is even better, with its contrasting flavors of pungent, sharp cheese and tart apple combining for a surprising, satisfying meal. The earthy taste of the walnuts is an unexpected, but perfect complement.

Entrees also were bursting with flavor. The coq au vin was moist and fork-tender, served in a robust red wine sauce with carrot medallions. The braised boeuf bourguignon was rich and flavorful, tasting like a hearty beef stew.

For dessert, we tried the homemade chocolate ice cream, as well as the tarte tatin, a country French apple pie with vanilla ice cream. The tarte, in particular, was large enough for two. It's delicious, but difficult to finish after a full meal.

L'Olivier isn't for everyone. The menu is limited, and not geared toward American palates. The late shows can get risque, filled with sexual innuendo. And the crowd is wildly, wonderfully diverse.

But for the adventurous soul who prefers not to rush through a meal - as is European custom - and who appreciates the spectacle of adult-themed entertainment, this is a destination spot that won't disappoint.