Step Into Ybor's Italian Oasis

TAMPA - Tucked along Seventh Avenue in the heart of Ybor City, one of Tampa's better Italian restaurants somehow manages the impossible.

La Terrazza, with its small staff and intimate dining room, transports you back to an era when dining meant taking your time and enjoying every delicious minute of the meal from the first bite of bread to the last sip of wine.

Stepping inside is like entering a protective bubble, despite the two large alcove picture windows overlooking a bustling stretch of the city's entertainment corridor, which can be home to staggering college students and homeless men selling makeshift paper roses.

Street noise doesn't intrude past the front door. Foot traffic offers something to watch, but nothing more.

The dozen or so tables are near one another, but not so much as to crowd. Minimal decorations adorn the burnt-orange walls. Light music plays.

It's clear that comfort is expected. The maitre d' and waiter don't loom, but are immediately attentive to requests. It's unlike most chain or larger restaurants in that there is no rush to push diners past each course and finally out the door.

There is plenty of time to finish a plate and even breathe for a few minutes, letting it digest, before the next arrives.

And this is definitely one experience you want to savor.

We started with the Prosciutto e Formaggio, which is a perfect appetizer - not too heavy, not too filling. Thin slices of Parma prosciutto mix well with chunks of fresh Parmesan cheese, black olives and marinated mushrooms. The only thing not in abundance on the plate was mushrooms, and that's not a complaint.

For greens, we tried the Insalata Terrazza, a tasty mix of Italian greens, sun-dried tomatoes and Gaeta olives tossed in a tangy balsamic vinaigrette.

La Terrazza's entree menu is simple but enticing.

The pastas alone - from linguine with pesto to lobster and crab-stuffed ravioli - make the decision difficult. One in particular - the Fiocchetti di Formaggio (pasta pouches filled with cheese in a bacon, onion and cream sauce) - sounds decadent, and it's on the short list of things to try next visit.

There also are three different veal scaloppine dishes to choose from, as well as chicken, fresh fish, lamb and steak.

We chose two chef's specials - a tomato-based seafood risotto, and gnocchi in a delicious Gorgonzola-cream sauce.

The gnocchi, in particular, was to die for, the rich cheese sauce clinging to the potato dumplings to make each bite burst with flavor.

The seafood risotto was almost more like a creamy Spanish paella, its tender rice packed with a hearty mix of shrimp, scallops and mussels.

La Terrazza is the perfect spot for a quiet, romantic dinner, a first date to impress or an anniversary meal to make memorable. It's a place where, during a recent visit, a woman asked to see the chef - not to complain, but to catch up; a longtime customer showing her regards and taking the chance to introduce her family.

It's the type of restaurant where you won't feel like a first-timer for long. Before the last plate is cleared and you're given a heartfelt "Ciao!" at the door, you're not only a regular, you feel like part of the family.

DINING REVIEW

La Terrazza Ristorante Italiano

BOTTOM LINE: Warm and intimate Italian charm amid the bustle of Ybor.

WHERE: 1727 E. Seventh Ave., Tampa

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; dinner: 6-10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: $12.95 to $26.95

CALL: (813) 248-1326