Tiny Thai Terrace Is Big On Flavor

TAMPA - Thai Terrace is one of those places we're apprehensive about reviewing, because then it might become packed with customers and lose its charming, intimate atmosphere.

But, frankly, it deserves to be packed with customers.

Three things stand out about Thai Terrace: its location, size and food. Attached to a Howard Johnson's on busy North Dale Mabry, the restaurant sits directly across the street from the Mons Venus and a few doors down from 2001 Odyssey. Who knew an area zoned for strip clubs could also provide such good food?

With just a few spaces in front of the restaurant, customers can park in the hotel lot. Once inside Thai Terrace, it's like being inside someone's small house, if that someone cooked amazingly fragrant dishes and decorated with pillows, lots of carved wood and candles. It has a quirky charm, as well as an intimate one - there are about 15 tables.

The menu, on the other hand, is big. It took us awhile just to choose an appetizer, a time during which two regulars came in and ordered by saying "you know what I want." (The second diner added, "By now"). It's that sort of neighborhood kind of place with delicious dishes and attentive, friendly service that turns first-timers into returning regulars.

All orders are followed by the question: "How spicy? One to five." The brave souls among you might want to go for five. The highest we got was three, and it occasionally made our eyes water.

The beauty of Thai food is the harmonious balance between a variety of flavors. Perhaps no dish exemplifies this more than coconut milk soup. It comes with shrimp, seafood or chicken (we chose chicken) and a variety of vegetables cooked in coconut milk with a hint of lemon grass and lime for spoonfuls of sweet, spicy and sour goodness.

If, like us, you judge a restaurant by its salad, you can imagine our delight with the green apple and roasted duck salad, which combined tart apple with spicy, shredded pieces of duck. Other salads include Heavenly Shrimp Salad - shrimp mixed with onions, carrots, lime juice, tomatoes and chili paste - and Nam Sod Salad, which combines chicken or tofu with fresh ginger, peanuts, onions and lime juice. Tofu can be used as a replacement for chicken in many dishes.

The staple dish of every Thai restaurant is Pad Thai, and Thai Terrace's version, with its rice noodles, meat, ground peanut, eggs, scallions and bean sprouts, satisfied. Even better was the Pad Kee Mow - fat noodles sauteed with eggs, basil leaves, carrots and baby corn. Our favorite off the noodle menu was Pad Lad Na, which features rice noodles topped with a light gravy sauce and mixed with vegetables and crunchy fried egg noodles.

We also tried the Steak Thai Style off the "chef recommended" list. The steak itself was a bit tough, but the potato with Masaman curry was delicious. The menu also offers a variety of curry dishes, as well as a "vegetarian corner" that includes tofu salad, sauteed vegetables and eggplant with nuts.

DINING REVIEW

Thai Terrace

BOTTOM LINE: Tiny Thai restaurant offers an oasis of tasty treats.

WHERE: 2055 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

HOURS: Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner: Monday through Friday, 4:30 to 10 p.m.; Saturday, 4 to 10 p.m.; closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Accepted for dinner only

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $8 to $28

CALL: (813) 877-8955