Sandwich Shop Has Wright Stuff

TAMPA - A handful of restaurants, by virtue of their long lives and consistency, define Tampa's culinary palate.

No list can exclude Bern's, the Columbia, Bella's, La Teresita and Donatello's, but plenty of others reside under the radar, toiling quietly over the years to nourish our attitudes and appetites. A city's restaurants are, after all, a reflection of the tastes of its people.

A permanent member on that short list has to be Wright's Gourmet House, an institution by any local's standard, and a place where the humble sandwich takes on an almost sacred reverence. Residents who have lived here long enough remember Wright's from the early years - it opened in 1963 - in a small storefront with used furniture and equipment.

Marjorie and Pete Wright brought to the table a high-quality product: imported meats and cheeses, teas and coffees, salads, decadent desserts and a variety of exotic accouterments for the gourmet cook. People would stop by, taste samples of food Marjorie cooked that day, and take home a ready-made dinner. The idea caught on, and soon Wright's was selling pre-packaged meals and sandwiches - including a popular item called Bucket Bread.

Today, Jeffrey Mount runs the show and continues to build on a menu perfected by his grandparents, especially its famed sandwiches, salads and cakes.

Anyone doubting the popularity of Wright's need only come in around noon on a weekday, when the line curls out the door. Once inside, you choose your feast from overhead menus and watch master sandwich makers do their thing behind the long glass counter. Another team at a bank of registers keeps the line moving in the relatively small restaurant, which seats about 80 people inside and 25 at outdoor tables.

What would a first-timer order? No doubt about that: the patented Beef Martini, the sandwich to end all sandwiches. Piled high with rare roast beef, mushrooms marinated in wine, bacon and a garlic-herb spread, this has been a Tampa favorite since grandmom Marjorie invented it in 1976.

Another gut-buster is the delicious grilled double-decker Monte Carlo, served hot on pumpernickel and stuffed with ham, Genoa salami, turkey, sliced German dill pickle and Jarlsberg cheese. A big mistake at lunch is trying to eat an entire Golden Gate, heavily loaded with roast pork, Jarlsberg, bacon and tomato and topped with peach chutney. Try going back to work and getting anything done.

It comes as no surprise that Wright's has perfected the Cuban sandwich - six first-place awards over the years in The Tampa Tribune's All-Tampa Cuban Sandwich Contest attest to its greatness. Ybor City natives might cry foul, but this Cuban on hot, fresh bread and its mound of fresh meats and cheese is digestibly among the best we've had around these parts.

Homemade soups are zesty and fresh tasting, and the Greek, garden, chef and spinach salads come chock-full of healthful ingredients.

Wright's cakes and pies are expensive, and worth the investment. The supermarket variety can't match their density, richness and flavor, especially the coconut cream and pecan pies. Delicious bits of banana, pineapple and nuts enhance the Hummingbird cake, and the cream-cheese carrot cake is one of the restaurant's top requests.

DINING REVIEW

Wright's Gourmet House

BOTTOM LINE: Gourmet sandwiches as they are meant to be.

WHERE: 1200 S. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

HOURS: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Friday; 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: No

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: No

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, but limited

PRICE: Sandwiches and salads range from about $2 to $8

CALL: (813) 253-3838