Upscale Dining In Northdale?

TAMPA - It's difficult to judge Grille One Sixteen by its exterior, given that it's a white block of a building in a shopping center that's also home to a kid's gymnasium and a tax preparer.

But once inside, Grille One Sixteen is all South Beach chic, from the sleek furnishings in white and the sleek wait staff in black. Luckily, this is a case where the food matches the tasteful decor. And so do the prices. It's more of a date destination, where dinner for two easily exceeds $100.

We went as a foursome without a reservation and were immediately seated. This was on a Wednesday night, however, and it is strongly suggested you make a reservation. The restaurant filled as the night went on, but the darkness of the interior gave our table an intimate feel.

A flat-screen television on the wall flashed black and white pictures of old Hollywood stars such as Humphrey Bogart. Whether this adds to the ambience or seems a bit over the top depends on your opinion of celebrities as taste-makers.

We started with Voss water and complimentary pretzel bread accompanied by artichoke hearts, spinach-artichoke dip and roasted macadamia nuts. This was followed by an exceptional trio of appetizers: tuna tartare, Kobe beef sliders and tempura lobster tail.

The succulent meat in the four sliders (mini hamburgers) would have been enough, but it also comes with a pickle and kick of wasabi mustard. Also tasty were the tender lobster tails, which came with a selection of sweet and hot sauces. The tuna tartare might have been the best thing we ate all night. The fresh tuna came on four crisp wonton chips smothered with a sweet chili sauce - this is highly recommended whether you like tuna or not.

We're always on the lookout for adventurous salads, but Grill One Sixteen's "signature salad" was surprisingly straightforward, the night's only letdown. Better were the tater tots, an odd item to find on the sides menu of an upscale restaurant. Rest assured you have never eaten tater tots this good, basically a petite potato croquette served, of course, with ketchup.

We also ordered a side of grits with Gruyere cheese and bacon. Again, like the tuna tartare, if you want to try grits for the first time, this is the way to do it.

The swordfish special entree featured a slightly blackened slab of fish in a zingy lemon butter sauce. As good as it was, the jumbo shrimp stuffed with crab meat that came with it was even better.

Grille One Sixteen also has found a way to fancy-up boring scallops - pan seared, wrapped in prosciutto and served with a sweet corn relish and creamy grits. The variety of flavors came together perfectly in one of the more memorable dishes of the evening.

We tried two steaks. The 8-ounce filet mignon (you can get a 12-ounce if you prefer) was perfectly prepared to order and served with whipped butternut squash and a mound of caramelized onions. The 20-ounce ribeye also was perfectly prepared. For a few dollars more, you can top your steaks with a selection of sauces and toppings, including goat cheese and lobster Oscar.

The restaurant's most popular dessert is an order of doughnuts drizzled with chocolate, caramel, white chocolate and raspberry coulis. We also recommend the peanut butter s'mores, if you can appreciate a mix of vanilla ice cream, peanut butter cups and graham crackers topped with toasted marshmallow.

The wait staff is attentive and courteous, the wine list is extensive, and the ambience is perfect for couples. And yes, it's in Northdale. Don't act so surprised.

DINING REVIEW

Grille One Sixteen

BOTTOM LINE: Upscale dining in Northdale with cuisine that matches the glamorous decor.

WHERE: 15405 N. Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa

HOURS: Open daily, 5 p.m. to midnight

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: No

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $18 to $39

CALL: (813) 265-0116