Eclectic Appetites Stoked At Fuego

There's more to Fuego Churrascaria Steakhouse than its straightforward name implies. This South American-style rotisserie restaurant dishes out more than Brazilian barbecue; there are tastes from Spain and Japan on the menu, too.

It's an eclectic -- maybe even confusing -- combination of sushi, tapas and Brazilian-style grilled meats, but at least the flavors at Fuego are above par.

We'd seen the neon sign just off Brandon Boulevard since the place opened its doors in 2006, but it took us three years to finally stop at the family-run restaurant.

We're glad we did.

Known for the rodizio serving style, which their Web site says is translated from Portuguese as a "rotation of meats," Fuego's all-you-can-eat selection was overwhelming.

Gaucho waiters strolled the dining room looking eagerly for empty plates, carrying cuts of steak, chicken, lamb and pork on long skewers. Pork loin, butter parmesan and garlic chicken, bacon-wrapped filet mignon and Brazilian sausage were just a few of the offerings. Each was delicious, sliced directly onto your plate.

A double-sided paper coin is provided to alert servers to stop at your table (green side up) or to pass by (flipped to red).

On our visit, the coin was mostly ignored. We tried to pace ourselves, but felt a little bombarded by new selections every two minutes. Items on our plates were getting cold because we didn't have a chance to eat them before another gaucho showed up. After turning them down several times, we finally gave up the fight and let the plate pile up.

Of course, having too much food wouldn't be a legitimate complaint for some, and each cut of meat -- at least the ones we were able to finish -- was delivered tender, juicy and full of flavor. Even the bacon-wrapped chicken was downright succulent. At a fixed price of $24.95, the rodizio is available all day Saturday and Sunday and on weekdays during dinner only.

It comes paired with a selection of side items, including plantains, garlic mashed potatoes, white and yellow rice and black beans. While there were no standouts here, it didn't matter. The meats were too good to save room for sides.

A house-made chimichurri parsley, garlic, olive oil and vinegar), served with the churrasco asado, is so good people buy it by the bottle. And the watercress salad, served in a tilted bowl (try picturing that), was fun to eat just for the unusual presentation.

Our waiter was extremely attentive and so was the sushi chef, who came to our table to inform us that he was out of mango. No worries, though, as he offered a mango sauce as a substitute.

Both the Volcano Roll (a California roll with cream cheese, avocado, and conch mixture) and the Hawaiian Roll (coconut shrimp tempura, cream cheese, topped with mango and avocado) were fresh and delicious. The concern of the sushi chef made it taste even better.

The restaurant was warmly lit with candles and shades of red. It would be a great place for a date, with the sultry styling hinting at romance.

A host of weekly specials could have you returning more often, from half-price for ladies on Tuesdays to children eating free on Thursdays.

We like Wednesdays -- $3 mojitos, margaritas, martinis and caipirinhas, Brazil's national cocktail made of sugar, lime and cachaça.

DINING REVIEW

Fuego Churrascaria Steakhouse

BOTTOM LINE: Brazilian-style steakhouse features all-you-can-eat grilled meats, sliced right onto your plate.

WHERE: 1721 W. Brandon Blvd., Brandon

HOURS: lunch: 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday, noon to 4 p.m. Sunday; dinner: 4-10 p.m. Monday through Saturday, 4-9 p.m. Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Recommended

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: $11.99 to $25; early bird specials and military discounts available

CALL: (813) 413-8382