Dim-sum reverie leads straight to stir fry

Whenever I return to Hong Kong, I head straight for a good dim sum restaurant. It's as close to competitive eating as I've ever experienced, and I'm not talking about the amount of food consumed.

In Hong Kong, many dim sum restaurants don't have a wait list, buzzing beepers or call-aheads. Instead, it's up to the customer to make a calculated sweep of the establishment's layout and decide which diners are closest to asking for the check. You then divide up your party, assign tables (even the kids) and station yourselves there like hungry vultures.

This signals that you are next to take that table. Not too close, because if the table considers you rude, the diners will linger just to annoy you. But not too far, because another waiting patron could squeeze in and lay claim.

The moment the first diner makes a rising motion, you must quickly and stealthily signal the rest of your party to dash over and take control of the table-handoff. Timing is important. If the rest of your party doesn't recognize your signal, another waiting party may - and make a mad dash for a hostile takeover.

Once more than half the interlopers are seated, you have no chance to get the table back.

And I haven't even gotten to the best part. Since the cart-pushers are paid on commission, there's competition for having the A-plus, easy-selling dishes, like Shrimp Har Gow. No one living on commission wants to be stuck selling Black Moss Lotus Seed Steamed Duck Tongue. The cart-pushers even jockey for floor space, teaming up to cart-block a path to a table with hungry-looking guests.

Yes, it gets nasty. Thank goodness we don't do dim-sum as a sport here. A few weeks ago, I was at the Publix Greenwise and scooted over to T.C. Choy's Bistro across the street for some dim-sum sans vultures. I asked for a recipe to share, and they offered up this brand-new one they plan to add to their menu.

Find more of Jaden Hair's culinary adventures at www.steamykitchen.com.

FRESH PEAR AND SHRIMP STIR FRY

adapted from T.C. Choy's Bistro

1 whole pear, peeled, cored and cut into small wedges

4 ounces thinly sliced carrots

2 tablespoons cooking oil

4 ounces snow peas

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

8 ounces shrimp, peeled and deveined

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons chicken broth

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Blanch the pear wedges and carrots for 30 seconds, then drain immediately. Pat the shrimp very dry. In a small bowl, mix together the salt, sugar, chicken broth and cornstarch. Set aside.

2. Heat a wok or large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add in the cooking oil and swirl to coat. When the oil is shimmering, add the shrimp and stir fry for 1 minute. Add the grated ginger and continue stir frying for 30 seconds. Add the peas, carrots and pears and toss well. Stir fry for 1 minute. The shrimp should be just barely cooked through.

3. Pour in the chicken broth mixture, stir and let cook for an additional minute, until shrimp is cooked through. Serve immediately.

Serves 4 as side dish.