How to squeeze a lemon - my way

Every time I pull out my damaged, aluminum lemon juicer, I wonder why I haven't thrown the thing out and purchased a new one. Two big reasons: I've tried and failed to find one like it, and I've bonded with the old-fashioned gadget.

Let me explain.

This relic of a kitchen tool, now minus its handle, was manufactured by Foley, probably in the 1950s. The juicer is so convenient, since it's designed to crush and separate the pulp of a lemon or orange while sitting snugly over a glass measuring cup.

It squeezes and measures. What more could I ask?

With my dandy gizmo, and a little muscle action, the liquid runs out through holes and is collected in my Pyrex, one-cup measurer. Thus I avoid the extra step of pouring the freshly squeezed juice from an opaque cup to a clear, marked one.

I don't need precise measurements every time I squirt a lemon; but when I do, my trusty contraption handles the job.

I learned online there are more than 200 patented lemon squeezers, the majority of which I think I've shopped and researched. A quick click to kitchenworksinc.com yields two dozen distinct reamers, squeezers and juicers, which all basically do the same thing.

Manual and electric options exist. Absence of complication, lightness and simplicity are the features I'm after - something I can toss in the drawer.

I don't remember when my Foley appeared or where it came from. It may have been in a box of kitchen utensils I bought at a yard sale eons ago. Just think of the hundreds of veal scaloppines, vinaigrettes, sauces and pies it has helped me create.

Locating a replacement hasn't been a matter of utmost urgency. When I'm in a kitchen store, I look. A clerk at Williams-Sonoma suggested I try eBay. I told her I had several times, with no luck.
As I sat writing this column, I decided to check eBay one more time.

Yes! There it was!

"This is a vintage aluminum lemon/orange juicer," the description read.

I ordered it immediately, and I'll be ready to juice away in a matter of four days. Ah, lemons, squeezed just the way I like.

LEMONY CRAB SALAD ON ENDIVE

Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup mayonnaise or as needed to bind
1 pound fresh crab meat, with cartilage removed
3/4 cup diced celery
Salt, freshly ground pepper and cayenne pepper to taste
24 Belgian endive leaves

In a bowl, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, tarragon, chives, parsley, mustard and mayonnaise; mix well. Stir in the crab and celery and season with salt, ground pepper and cayenne. Cover and refrigerate up to 6 hours. To serve, spoon the crab mixture into the endive leaves and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours to firm the filling.