Taste of India - as spicy as you like it

I've never had more than a taste of Indian cuisine, but that changed recently when I had dinner with a friend at Taste of India.

Judging by the large number of diners there when we arrived, I had a feeling the Brandon restaurant was going to be a good one.

After securing a comfortable booth, we took a moment to soak in the restaurant's authentic decor. From the elephant-headed "god of food" that sat in the foyer and ceremonial headdress on the wall above our table to ornate wood carvings and wafting scent of incense, the ambiance of the restaurant was lovely and comfortable.

Our host was George Thomas, one of Taste of India's co-owners.

Lucky for us, it was Friday evening. That meant a steady stream of live music from talented Indian musician Philip Blessen, whose voice and keyboard provided a soothing, almost magical backdrop for our meal.

The complimentary pappadam - thin, crispy crackers made with lentil flour - came to life when dipped in an unusually good mint sauce, tamarind sauce or rich onion chutney.

For starters, we had masala dosa, a rolled crispy rice crepe served with two sauces: fresh coconut chutney and a dish of sambar, a soupy, lentil-based sauce of southern India. We took half of the crepe home and ate it for breakfast the next morning with jam.

We also enjoyed the surprisingly simple and tasty vegetable samosa, three pastries stuffed with spiced potatoes and green peas.

On Taste of India's menu, one to four red peppers denote degrees of spiciness, but the dishes can be customized to each diner's taste.

Since I was a novice, I ordered the tandoori whole fish, a one-pepper favorite. The fresh catch of the day was grouper. Marinated with curry spices and generously coated and baked in a tandoor clay oven, the fish was delicious. It was accompanied by creamy potatoes cooked with saffron, steamed mixed vegetables, naan bread and a side of aromatic basmati rice.

My friend selected tandoori chicken, and equally loved the dish.

I was curious about the tandoor oven, so Thomas took me to the kitchen and showed me how skewers threaded with meat, chicken or fish are inserted down into it. Then he walked me through the process of making naan bread, which is served plain or topped with olive oil, garlic and cilantro.

After dinner, we shared pistachio kulfi, an ice cream-like frozen bar on a Popsicle stick. What a refreshing exclamation point at the end of our Indian meal.

Taste of India, 902 E. Brandon Blvd., has a full bar and offers a buffet from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and noon to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 5 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. For information, call (813) 689-4040.

MANGO CHUTNEY

2 large green mangoes, peeled and cubed

4 ounces apricots or cherries, dried

1/2 ounce golden raisins

1 tablespoon chopped ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 to 2 red chili peppers, seeded and minced

2 cups sugar

1/2 cup water

1 cup white vinegar

3 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon cumin

1/2 teaspoon black mustard seeds, optional

2 teaspoons garam masala

Place all of the ingredients in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Simmer for 30 minutes or until thick. Seal in airtight jars.