Tres Amigos catching on in Brandon

Review

Tres Amigos Cantina in Brandon is an underdog with a story compelling enough to make you want to give it a shot.

Nearly three years ago, three managers at the former Don Pablo's found out their restaurant was closing, a victim of the struggling economy. The trio sulked in the parking lot - the day after Christmas - surrounded by furniture and cooking equipment.

Then the phone rang.

The owner of the large, brick building off of State Road 60 proposed going into business together. The name, Tres Amigos, just seemed to fit.

The food the amigos serve is fresh, authentic and occasionally inventive. The portions aren't skimpy, and the prices are respectful of the economy.

One thing working against them is the location. It may be along a major roadway, but a row of trees somewhat block the restaurant from the view of passersby. Hungry drivers are more likely to spot chains such as Chili's and Outback Steakhouse.

We were greeted by a friendly wait staff and found the open dining area and roomy booths inviting. The décor, right down to the plates, is left over from Don Pablo's.

We started with the guacamole appetizer, which went well with the homemade salsa and chips. We appreciated the free chips and salsa, something so many Mexican restaurants now charge for.

We tried the large margarita and had no complaints. The fresh lime juice was a plus.

The guacamole was served in a large dessert glass and was easily large enough for four. The salsa tasted fresh, with large chunks of tomatoes and onions.

Other appetizer options include a sampler of three dips, quesadillas and Mexican pizza.

The menu has everything you would expect: burritos, chimichangas, taco salad. But we craved something more creative.

The Poblanos Relleno is a new item on the menu. We found the two large (and we mean large ) peppers to have just the right amount of spiciness. One bite was tame, while the next required a gulp of water. Ours came stuffed with chicken, but other options include cheese, fajita steak or taco meat.

The peppers are breaded, fried and topped with cheese and ranchero sauce. It was a memorable dish, the kind that could bring you back.

Next, we tried the Chicken Flautas Dinner. Chicken rancheros are rolled in corn tortillas and fried golden brown. They were fresh and crunchy. The flautas are served with guacamole, sour cream lettuce and tomatoes. We added queso for dipping.

Our server was friendly and had great recommendations.

On another visit, at lunch-time, the wait-staff seemed a bit overwhelmed by the bustle. The server was just as friendly, but we had to wait longer to order and get refills, which could be a problem for business folks on a schedule.

This time, we went with what the menu called, "customers' No. 1 lunch choice," a sizzling skillet of fajitas.

It was clear why this would be a fave. The fajitas continued to sizzle on the table for a few minutes, and the aroma was wonderful. We chose the steak and chicken combo, but other options include veggies or shrimp. The meat was tender, without the chewy pieces sometimes found in fajitas.

A small Casa Salad - iceberg lettuce, tomatoes, cheese and tortilla chips - was a nice addition. The salad was just $1.50, making it even better.

The past three years have been tough on the amigos. One of them parted ways and the remaining two say they're lucky to still be open, after a very slow first year. It took more than a year to save for a sign.

Things are picking up now, though. Word is spreading, and a following is growing.

After all, who doesn't root for the underdog?