Fill 'Er Up At Zelda's Cafe & Deli

CHANNEL DISTRICT - When newly hired art consultant Leith ter Meulen visited recently from New York City, community leaders took her to lunch at the neighborhood's only mom-and-pop restaurant, Zelda's Cafe & Deli.

'What a clever way to get restaurant space,' ter Meulen said.

Zelda's fills what used to be a carwash and service center, and the eatery remains attached to the BP gas station at Kennedy Boulevard and Channelside Drive.

Owner Carl Smalling wasn't trying to be clever as much as he saw a need and decided he had the solution. Despite the retail space available in nearby condominium projects, few shops and no places to eat and drink - other than chains - have opened.

There's the nearby Channelside complex, but residents felt in need of a gathering-type place, said Genie White, president of the Channel District Council.

'Carl is great,' she said. 'He'll make up whatever you want.'

Smalling said it's not unusual for him to receive a call from an office worker at the Tampa Port Authority headquarters across the street.

''Carl, I have a sweet tooth today. What can you make for me?'' he said with a laugh, repeating the request.

Smalling and co-manager Solomon Facey grew up in Jamaica together and worked for cruise lines. Smalling retired as sous-chef after 19 years at the Tampa Yacht & Country Club.

He took over the BP station and adjoining parking lot four years ago but soon grew bored. He decided to work toward opening Zelda's, named for his late mother. Open a month, the place is open from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily and seats 60.

The menu includes biscuits with sausage gravy, and spinach, feta cheese and tomato omelets for breakfast, along with macaroni and cheese and deli sandwiches for lunch. Smalling also prepares daily specials such as pork roast. Lunch prices are $5.75 to $8.25.

'I wanted to accommodate all different tastes,' he said. 'Some days you want the salad, and we have that. But other days, you want food from mama's kitchen.'

'Zelda's is often packed,' said Lauren Flashner, condo specialist at the Slade, a nearby project that broke ground this week. 'There was just nothing else in this end.'

Smalling said he had to reclaim the corner from the transient population in the former warehouse area near the gritty Port of Tampa. He raised the price of cigarettes and stopped selling quarts of beer. He plans a tiki bar on a patio that's under construction and will seek a beer and wine license.

'This is a place for people to read the paper and drink coffee,' he said. Dogs can rest outdoors while their owners nosh inside.

Located next to White's Artists Unlimited cooperative building, Zelda's will soon display works by local artists.

'I plan to make this work,' Smalling said. 'I've retired for this.'

IF YOU GO

WHAT: Zelda's Cafe & Deli

WHERE: 1239 E. Kennedy Blvd.

WHEN: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

CONTACT: Call (813) 226-0257 or fax (813) 226-0169 for delivery