Dining review: Italian eatery evokes Old World charm

When was the last time you went to a restaurant and had the owner himself wait on your table?

That's the sort of personal touch you'll find at Osteria Natalina, a quaint, casual Italian eatery that might seem instantly familiar to south Tampa residents.

It's a small, unassuming spot in the corner of a nondescript strip mall, but Osteria Natalina's tastefully simple dining room fills up with the mouthwatering aromas of Old World recipes and the natural charm of its owner.

Restaurateur Spartaco Giolito worked the same room when it was known as Spartaco Trattoria Italiana. After he sold the business to pursue other ventures, the value of his presence became immediately apparent.

To say his return is welcomed with open arms is probably a case of understatement. After all, this is a man who has long greeted regular customers with warm hugs and handshakes.

Those old-timers will find a few small changes at Giolito's "new" restaurant, which is named for his mother. In Italy, an osteria is more casual than a trattoria, so they've done away with the white tablecloths and modified the menu to include a variety of affordable options -- a savvy move, considering the economy.

A great way to start a meal here is with Le Cozze alla "Cappa Style" (black mussels). The sweet, briny shellfish swim in a sinfully delicious sauce of white wine, garlic butter and herbs. By comparison, our L'Insalata di Calamari -- firm strips of fresh squid, served with mild garlic oil, diced tomatoes and lemon -- seemed positively timid, so we went back and used a basket of warm bread to sop up the leftover sauce from the mussels.

Among soups and salads, the clear standout on our visit was L'Insalata Caprese, slices of sweet beefsteak tomato and lush mozzarella sprinkled with basil and drizzled with balsamic vinegar. The delicate flavor and texture of the Italian cheese was so impossibly flawless, it sparked "best ever" talk.

One thing that thankfully hasn't changed is Giolito's invariably stellar list of specials. On a recent evening, we couldn't resist three of its offerings.

A plate of tortellacci stuffed with braised veal and beef, then tossed with portobello mushrooms in a brown demi-glace drew raves for its rich flavor. We also enjoyed the surprisingly light Asiago stuffed gnocchi in a creamy pink sauce. The lobster stuffed ravioli, topped with pink sauce and a skimpy touch of crab meat, seemed mildly disappointing only in the shadow of the other dishes.

You can't go wrong ordering off the regular menu, either, whether you opt for one of several tantalizing seafood entrees or a steaming plate of strozzapreti, an elongated, hand-rolled cavatelli-like pasta native to the region of Northern Italy where Giolito grew up.

We couldn't pass up the Lasagne di Pesce, its layers of pasta oozing with soft Ricotta and stuffed with a mix of shrimp and scallops. At Giolito's recommendation, we also tried the 10 oz. beef filet -- sliced thin, served medium rare and topped with shaved mozzarella -- and found its flavor to be exceptional, especially by filet standards. The meat was so tender, it didn't even matter that they forgot to bring us a proper steak knife.

Speaking of service, it's generally outstanding. Giolito and his staff were friendly and efficient. We were brought fresh utensils between courses and fresh glasses between bottles of wine. When one of our guests couldn't decide between two dishes, Giolito offered to have the kitchen prepare a combination of both.

Dessert mustn't be missed. It would be next to impossible to pick a favorite among the chocolate cannoli, creme brûlée cheesecake and hazelnut gelato.

Osteria Natalina offers a small but solid wine list that's impressively varied considering all reds are $28 per bottle and all whites are $26. A glass of either will run you $5.

We're glad Giolito couldn't stay away. Diners would be wise to follow suit.

DINING REVIEW

Osteria Natalina

BOTTOM LINE: Charming eatery specializing in authentic Northern Italian dishes, particularly seafood.

WHERE: 3215 S. MacDill Ave., Tampa

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Thursday and Friday; dinner: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: No

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accomodate

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $10.50 to $24.50

CALL: (813) 831-1210