TAMPA -- If J.J. Ching's sounds familiar, it's probably because the name is so similar to P.F. Chang's. The menu certainly has many of the same dishes you'll find at the better-known Chinese chain restaurant, such as Singapore rice noodles and chicken in lettuce wraps.

Luckily, J.J. Ching's carves out its own niche, offering an accessible menu, quality food and affordable prices in a quiet environment with a conscientious wait staff.

Located in the courtyard of Carrollwood Village Center, the restaurant features decor that isn't very Chinese, except for a picture of the Great Wall of China and a very happy Buddha near the cash register. The restaurant also offers take-out service.

The food ranks quite a bit above average Chinese fare, and the restaurant offers a selection of Vietnamese dishes as well. J.J. Ching's also advertises itself as serving food without MSG and using only white meat chicken.

Every dish mentioned here tasted fresh with clean flavors. And on all three of our visits, the wait staff was caring, attentive and informed. The water glasses never got empty, and our waitresses offered recommendations and clarified the spiciness of dishes.

All dinners start with a complimentary bowl of crispy fried noodles. For starters, we recommend the fresh rolls, which feature steamed shrimp, rice noodles and fresh lettuce and mint leaves sheathed in tissue-thin rice paper and served with a plum-peanut sauce.

Also delicious were the crab wontons — wonton skins filled with seasoned cream cheese and crab meat, fried crispy and served with a sweet and sour sauce. The tasty egg rolls were generously filled with a savory vegetable and chicken mixture. Other appetizers include chicken in lettuce wraps and salt and pepper calamari.

There are no salads available but plenty of soups, including wonton, egg drop and hot and sour.

For a soup that eats like a meal, try the Pho (listed under the Vietnamese specialties section of the menu). The Pho Ga is a chicken noodle soup, combining a light broth, chunks of white meat and loads of rice noodles. The generous portion is a perfect comfort food. But this version lacked the accessories that make Pho fun, such as lime quarters and fresh herbs.

A better choice was the rice vermicelli, also called Bun (pronounced boon). It proved to be an intricately flavored dish of contrasting tastes, textures and temperatures. It starts with a nest of rice noodles topped with meat (we had the beef), crisp sprouts, cucumbers and lettuce shreds, a sprinkle of peanuts and a side of the chef's special sauce, a lively vinegar and chili pepper concoction.

Also worth a repeat taste test were the Cantonese noodles — scallions, garlic and chili peppers stir-fried with ground chicken and served atop hot egg noodles. The side of sprouts and julienned cucumber is a cool counter to the heat of the chili peppers.

The coconut curry vegetables were a delight to the taste buds and senses: an aromatic blend of spices, sweet coconut milk, firm tofu, onions and peppers served with rice. There was also a sizzling Go Ba — fresh pork and chicken exquisitely flavored with mushrooms, Chinese vegetables and water chestnuts, served with rice.

Nothing disappointed, other than a bit of a wait for the food on one of our visits. While the atmosphere might not be above average, the food is — and that's the important thing.

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Mary Patrick can be reached at marypatrick@fridayextra.com.