TAMPA -- Not long ago, anyone milling around downtown on north Franklin Street either was a confused tourist or a cop, especially at night. Bleak and uninviting, this once-bustling stretch for years suffered the wear of neglect, and only now have offices, condos and a restaurant or two begun to energize the area.

The promise of a downtown nightlife, as we have argued in these pages, hinges on restaurants, whether catering to the happy-hour crowd or midnight vampires. Both have found a home at Fly Bar & Restaurant, which recently brought in a new chef and menu.

The Fly opened two years ago to local acclaim, and its food, service and atmosphere got off to a strong start. Then late last year, the owners hired Rene Caceres, a culinary wizard from San Francisco who frames each dish with nouvelle sophistication, an eye for color and a knack for kitchen chemistry.

With its old brick walls, high ceiling, rooftop deck, big picture windows and cheerful resonance, the Fly could easily be a spot you'd frequent in Austin or Albuquerque. The building dates from 1923, and plenty of original details lend richness to the ambiance. Paintings by Tampa artist Sean Spoto adorn the walls, and a courteous and efficient wait staff pampers dinner guests.

The kitchen specializes in small-plate entrees -- think Californian tapas with the flavors of France and the Mediterranean. Most everything we tried was a topic of conversation, and each shared order led to another quickly devoured morsel.

One night started with Wild Mushroom Risotto, its earthy taste offset by shavings of salty sheep's milk Pecorino Romano cheese. The richness of avocado and zest of pico de gallo blend nicely in the Scallop Ceviche with potato crisps.

Not too many restaurants offer a Brussels sprouts appetizer, but the Fly pulls it off with a gentle saute and dousing in whole grain mustard vinaigrette. Chipotle chili cream kicks up the heat on the Crab and Lobster Cakes, and a mold-ripened Humboldt Fog goat cheese and herbs bring to life a humble lump of Roasted Baby Beets.

The Grilled Artichoke was soft and flavorful, especially when dipped in its bath of lemon butter. A companion practically inhaled the Ropa Vieja, a small helping of tasty shredded beef spiked with green olives accompanied by plantain chips.

The kitchen offers only a dozen entrees, some framed by deep-colored sauces against white plates. A favorite is the Poached Wild Salmon with watercress pistou and a delicious dill pomme puree. Although perfectly cooked, the small $16 serving of fish disappeared in a few bites.

We loved the flavorful Seared Duck Breast, especially when the riot of flavors included orange syrup, baby bok choy and black rice. Cannellini beans and a garnish of citrus gremolata enhance the pan-seared Wild Striped Bass, and the kitchen creates a small masterpiece by marrying pan-seared skate (a member of the ray family) with Israeli couscous, leeks and small farm-raised Manila clams.

Chimay White Label from Belgium tops a good variety from the tap, and on Monday nights diners can enjoy half-priced wines by the bottle, such as a fruit-forward Plungerhead Old Vine Zinfandel for $25.

DINING REVIEW

Fly Bar & Restaurant

BOTTOM LINE: Tapas-style dining in a historic downtown building

WHERE: 1202 N. Franklin St., Tampa

HOURS: Lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday; dinner, 5:30 p.m. to midnight Monday through Thursday, 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday; closed Sunday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: Yes

CHILDREN'S MENU: Can accommodate

ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Appetizers and entrees range from $7 to $17

CALL: (813) 275-5000