TAMPA - For more than 30 years, Gino's has been a fine rebuttal to the charge that everything north of Kennedy Boulevard is a blighted culinary wasteland of fast-food and chain restaurants.

That notion is dispelled in this space with regularity, but there's always a special place in every north Tampa resident's heart for Gino's, the cozy, casual little restaurant that's sat near the corner of Armenia and Linebaugh avenues since 1973.

Family owned, reasonably priced and noted for its friendly service, it's long been a favorite for those living in Forest Hills or Old Carrollwood. We'd almost feel bad about shining a light on it, except Gino's is probably one of the worst-kept neighborhood secrets in Tampa, as noted by the crowded parking lot.

As you enter, the bar is on the left. On the right is the restaurant, with tables placed in alcoves that offer a sense of privacy. The restaurant side seats around 35 and has the feel of a romantic Italian bistro, from the walls adorned with wine racks to the red and white checkered floor.

The Italian bistro theme is carried through the menu. A good place to start is a glass of the house sangria and a plate of calamari, which comes lightly battered, perfectly fried and served with a rich, robust marinara. Or try one of three pita pizzas, smothered in cheese and a variety of toppings and served quartered.

One of Gino's signature dishes is eggplant parmigiana. Made with breaded and fried eggplant slices sandwiched with marinara, ricotta cheese, spinach and mozzarella, it's both tasty and filling. In fact, as with many entrees, you might as well plan on ordering a "to-go" box, as portions are generous.

The hefty portion of lasagna features several layers of pasta with spinach, ground beef, hunks of Italian sausage and a blend of cheeses baked in tomato sauce. The simple rustic goodness of this dish made it a real winner.

We also tried the veal Marsala. The lightly breaded and fork-tender veal is covered with creamy mushroom gravy and served with a side of linguine tossed in an herb-butter sauce.

Other Italian staples include baked ziti, pasta primavera and ravioli. There are also a half dozen seafood dishes, including grouper parmigiana (pan-fried grouper baked with marinara and mozzarella) and grouper piccata (a fillet sauteed with capers, mushrooms and white wine). All meals are served with a warm loaf of Gino's crusty bread coated in garlic oil and Parmesan cheese, and all entrees include a choice of house or Caesar salad.

Even when straying from the usual Italian fare, the food remains high quality. For example, the Blue Max is a well-seasoned, juicy burger cooked to order and served with an abundance of bacon and blue cheese crumbles, lettuce, onion and a tomato that looked fresh from the farmer's market. The onion rings on the side tasted homemade, some of the best we've eaten in Tampa.

For a lighter meal, the Chicken Mediterranean Salad features grilled chicken, sun-dried tomato, artichoke hearts, kalamata olives and feta cheese on a bed of mixed greens. While the dressing is served on the side, it's not really required thanks to the flavorful, fresh and crisp ingredients of the dish.

If you boxed part of your entree, you might have room for desserts such as bananas Foster, served over cheesecake or ice cream, or the more traditional tiramisu.

We were pleased to find that Gino's lived up to its reputation - friendly atmosphere, attentive servers, solid and at times spectacular food, and reasonable prices.

DINING REVIEW

Gino's Bar & Restaurant

BOTTOM LINE: Cozy neighborhood restaurant offers good Italian and American fare.

WHERE: 10006 N. Armenia Ave., Tampa

HOURS: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday

CREDIT CARDS: All major

RESERVATIONS: No

CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes

ALCOHOL: Beer and wine

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

PRICE: Entrees range from $7 to $20

CALL: (813) 933-1089