ST. PETERSBURG -- Readers are forever asking us for a short list of favorite restaurants, and as soon as we finish compiling it, the lineup changes.

That happened again this week as we savored two recent visits to Ceviche, the ornate tapas bar and restaurant in the historic Ponce de Leon hotel. We liked this place from the get-go, enchanted as much by its olive-drenched Spanish atmosphere as the depth and quality of its menu.

Ceviche is at the heart of a happening downtown, within walking distance to the Museum of Fine Arts, parks, the marina, Mahaffey Theater, shopping and Central Avenue’s nightlife. Whether you drop in for a glass of sangria or stuff yourself silly, it’s hard not to feel attached to this culinary villa and its gregarious wait staff.

Ceviche fits its environs like a glove. The Ponce de Leon is a classic mission-style hotel built in 1922, the first in the city to reside along the waterfront. It retains much of the charm of those early, land-boom projects where large, elaborately designed masonry hotels replaced smaller and simpler wood structures.

One bustling weekend visit meant a wait for a table, so we found solace at the bar, elevated above the main floor and wrap-around dining rooms. The barkeep makes an excellent sangria with lots of chopped fruit, and surprised us with one of the better high-end rums on the market.

The restaurant offers what must be 100 hot and cold tapas; a dangerous proposition for any kitchen. Yet, everything we ordered — from the simplest to the most complex — was prepared and presented at a consistently high level. Even the least expensive item on the menu, the $3 plate of Aceitunas y Pimientos (imported olives) was an appetizing delight.

Selections of ceviche, the namesake offering, includes a delicious gamut of raw seafood marinated in citrus juices and adorned with aromatic herbs and spices (for the uninitiated, the citric acid firms the flesh and turns the seafood opaque).

We enjoyed a hearty helping of Ceviche de Salmon for $8, served in a cocktail glass with cilantro, onion, caviar and Russian vodka. We also applaud the Ceviche de la Casa, a mouth-watering combination of scallops, shrimp, squid and fish; and an exquisite Ceviche de Atun, the tuna fresh and clean on the tongue.

One of the kitchen’s more addicting creations is the Vieras Rellenas, grilled sea scallops cooked with leeks, herbs and a rich manchego cheese in a boat of sherry cream. We discovered decadence in the Pato a la Parilla, a succulent grilled duck breast sliced over chocolate and port sauce.

Impressive dishes include a tender Pork Shank and a rich and woodsy flambéed Chorizo al Brandy. Anyone who loves oxtail shouldn’t hesitate to order the Rabo de Toro, as the slowly braised meat, intense from its bath in a rich red wine, falls off the bone. Mild chorizo complements the marinated chicken and grilled tenderloin that make up the Banderillas Mixtas. Big-ticket items are the Paella Valenciana with lobster; the squid ink Paella Negra; and a seafood and saffron stew called Zarzuela.

All these heady scents, racy citrus and spice call for dessert: a heavenly Flan Lorena or the Trilogia de Chocolates, a blend of white, milk and dark chocolate mousse with rum sauce.

Service on our visits was courteous and efficient, especially our servers Krystal and Big Mike. Late-night revelers, by the way, might check out the Flamenco Room downstairs.

Tribune reviewers eat anonymously. Kurt Loft can be reached at (813) 259-7570 or kloft@tampatrib.com.

DINING REVIEW
Ceviche
BOTTOM LINE: Exquisite Spanish dining wrapped in a historic surrounding
WHERE: 10 Beach Drive, St. Petersburg
HOURS: 5 to 10 p.m. Sunday and Monday, 5 p.m. to midnight Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday
CREDIT CARDS: All major
RESERVATIONS: Yes, for parties of six or more
CHILDREN'S MENU: Yes
ALCOHOL: Full bar and wine list
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes, but limited
PRICE: Tapas and entrées range from to $4 to $35
CALL: (727) 209-2302