Alaska in the winter? You betcha

The incredulity was unanimous. An Alaska winter vacation? You've lost it! What's next, a summer twirl on Clearwater Beach wearing a mink?

You learn a lot after landing in Anchorage for a January adventure. First, the weather is not that extreme. In fact, it can be relatively balmy. The warmer waters off coastal Alaska keep temperatures in the low 20s, on average.

Second, Alaska has some of the most spectacular scenery on our side of the solar system. Third, Alaskans are not holed up inside waiting for spring; they're outside having a great time.

A short drive south of Anchorage is the town of Girdwood, home of Alaska's premier ski resort, Alyeska.

It's a perfect ski area for slackers, and I mean that in a good way. Hate getting up early for first tracks? Then you've got to love the 10:30 a.m. mountain opening, necessitated by the late-arriving winter sun. By March, the slopes are bathed with 13 hours of light.

Alyeska skiing is accessed by a 60-passenger aerial tram, climbing 2,000 feet and depositing passengers in the middle of a mountain that receives frequent and sometimes record powder dumps. A quick ride up high-speed Chair 6 and you're at 2,750 feet, the top of lift service. From here, the wide-open Upper Bowl beckons intermediate skiers, and the advanced and expert can try the challenging North Face, with some of the longest double-black runs in North America.

By 5:30, it's time to transition to night skiing or head down to the hotel. The Alyeska Hotel, one of the finest in the North Country, boasts many amenities, rivaling most on-mountain lodges in the contiguous states. Opt for some hot tub, pool or sauna time or a complete spa indulgence package.

Alaska has evolved into a "surf and turf" gastronomic paradise, with abundant local seafood, including king crab, salmon, halibut, shrimp and a plethora of red meat and game delicacies such as bison, reindeer, caribou and, of course, beef tenderloin.

Nowhere is this abundance treated with a finer gourmet flair than the Seven Glaciers Restaurant, high atop the ski mountain. Among the all-Alaskan delights are mesquite-grilled salmon and a bison rib-eye steak. Desserts are also inspiring, with a Baked Alyeska mousse channeling an Alaska mountain and night sky, and a pistachio chocolate cake with an edible chocolate spoon.

More local fare can be sampled in town at the renowned Double Musky, a Cajun-Creole joint where a burgundy-crusted beef and Louisiana love are served among an eclectic melange of trinkets hanging from all available wall and ceiling space.

For a dependable wildlife fix, motor south out of Girdwood to the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. Journeying along the Turnagain Arm, which accommodates 30-foot tides and vast tidal flats, you are treated to the sublime meeting of mountains and water. At certain times of the year, 6- to 10-foot-tall bore tides advance through the arm, sometimes ridden by loony surfers and harbor seals.

The center, near Portage, cares for and rehabilitates injured animals. Among the denizens of the natural enclosures are bears, reindeer, moose, elk, coyotes, caribou, bison and a porcupine, bald eagle and owl. Don't forget to check out the cool gift shop.

Continue on to the picturesque town of Seward for beautiful Kenai Mountains views and a memorable Resurrection Bay boat tour, starting in early March, replete with orcas, sea lions and bald eagles.

Don't miss seeing the sights of Alaska's metropolis, Anchorage, a city that didn't exist 100 years ago. Started as a staging ground for the construction of the Alaska Railroad, it has been building and booming since the North Slope oil revenues started to flow.

Check out the city's museums to learn about Alaska's native heritage, pioneers and how the city and state were forever altered by the massive 9.2-magnitude earthquake of 1964. Treat yourself to the offerings at Orso, one of Anchorage's finest dining rooms. Check out Humpy's for beer and nightlife, or stop in at the FireTap Ale House, seemingly with the city's entire population, for a brew.

You can't see Russia from the FireTap, but can you get a Hockey Mom martini? You betcha.

IF YOU GO

•Delta and US Airways have the best connections from Tampa to Anchorage via Minneapolis and Phoenix, respectively. Check www.delta.com, www .usairways.com or your favorite travel site.

•Alaska State Division of Tourism: www .travelalaska.com

•Anchorage Convention & Visitors Bureau: www.anchorage.net, 1-800-478-1255

•Girdwood Chamber of Commerce: www .girdwoodalaska.com

•Alyeska Resort: www.alyeskaresort.com, 1-800-880-3880

•Kenai boat cruise: www.KenaiFjords.com

•Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center: www.awcc.org, (907) 783-2025

•Kenai Peninsula

information: www .kenaipeninsula.org