Get carried away to High Springs

This sleepy town is a perfect little hideaway for lovers.

That includes people who love the great outdoors; people who love arts and antiquing; and people in love and looking for a place with romance. About 30 minutes northwest of Gainesville, the town of High Springs, home of about 3,600 residents, was once part of Henry B. Plant's railroad empire and later the Atlantic Coastline.

Today, it's a collection of restored vintage homes, downtown shops featuring collectibles from bygone eras, a weekly farmers market and proud populace.

Independently owned restaurants draw tourists and locals to talk Florida Gator football or local politics. A half-finished jigsaw puzzle sits on a table, an invitation to anyone who wants to add a piece to the picture.

There is quiet solitude on the Sante Fe River, protected from most development but with its own local legend: "Naked Ed" Watts. The recluse is so much a part of community lore, a local ale bears his name and picture.

High Springs has an old-fashioned small-town feel and a major attraction, says Larry Behnke, one of 14 artists who sells his work in an art co-op downtown.

"People come from all over the world for the world-class springs in the area."

They also come from Gainesville and the university, says Jim Wood, founder and owner of the 20-year-old Santa Fe Canoe Outpost, which offers trips on the river. "Our biggest clients are from the University of Florida. They are here to give themselves a break, get away and enjoy the nature and beauty of the area," Wood said.

The Santa Fe River near High Springs reflects the area's atmosphere, locals say.

"It's one of laid-back people and ambience," says Jim Wood, owner of Santa Fe River Canoe Outpost. "This is a chance to stop, relax and chill out."

Wood came to High Springs with his wife and three children 20 years ago, leaving behind a career in real estate in Philadelphia. "This is one of the prettiest, cleanest rivers in Florida," he says, adding that most of the land along the banks is owned by the region's water management district. The privately owned sections have development set back from view.

Wood's rental company offers trips ranging from three miles to overnight, with prices for two from $28 to $50 for the day trip to $130 for the overnight trip.

The most popular excursion, and the one my husband and I chose, is a seven-mile paddle to Rum Island, which takes about three hours. On the way, we glided past cypress trees and ferns, and counted nearly 100 turtles sunning themselves on fallen logs.

We spotted an otter; numerous kingfishers, egrets and red shoulder-hawks; a wood duck; a pileated woodpecker; a wood duck - and one hermit.

"Naked Ed" Watts has been a fixture on the river at Lily Springs for 25 years. Each day he greets visitors, sans clothing, from a wooden platform above the water. His small hut is nearby.

He suffers from brittle bone disease, a sign tells us, and receives disability payments. He talks of the day's news and tells us that a filmmaker is working on his life's story.

He'll let you take his picture. And if he has some handy, he'll sign a Naked Ed's Pale Ale coaster for you. You can leave a donation in a mailbox, if you like.

From Lily Springs it's another 30 minutes to the end of the trip, where we are picked up by the canoe company's staff.

During our stay, we picnicked at nearby O'Leno State Park, which includes a swimming area, suspension bridge, hiking trails and historical exhibits. Family, youth, primitive and group camping are available, along with canoe rentals.

Adjacent River Rise Preserve State Park also offers 20 miles of trails. Equestrians can camp overnight with their horses at the horse camp, which has primitive campsites, restrooms and a 20-stall barn.

The High Springs area offers diving, swimming and tubing at public and privately owned springs. Fees vary but many are $5 a car or $5 a person.

There's a full day of browsing and bargaining to be found in downtown High Springs' stores, which offer new items, handmade gifts and collectibles from days gone by.

Bettye Groskowski, who owns the Antique Center of High Springs, 145 N. Main St., with her husband, John, wishes there were more than the dozen or so shops it has.

"At the height of our time, (in the 1990s through mid-2000) we are had 10 to 12 shops just for antiques," she says. Many people came just for the shops alone.

But the slow economy has taken a toll and a few of the shops have closed.

The antiques stores helped revitalize the area in the late 1980s, according Larry Behnke, an artist who came to High Springs in 1980 from Michigan.

"There were a lot of empty storefronts, and there were junk stores that got upgraded to antique stores," Behnke said.

A lot of credit goes to Kip and Sandy Pierce, who have since left the area. They started Wisteria Corner as an antique shop. It's now Wisteria Cottage and sells only new items. Visitors range from first-timers "to those who remember the stories from the days past," Groskowski says. "They are looking for anything."

Furniture, including desks, cabinets, tables and chairs, have been selling well, she says. "Also, a lot of books and primitives, including egg beaters and quilts ... things you remember from your grandmother's home."

At the other end of downtown, the Main Street Antique Mall, 10 S. Main St., has 50 booths of vendors. The booths carry Depression glass, Fiesta ware, toys, jewelry, cigar boxes, fishing lures, cookie jars, tea pots and coins. Many items sell for $10 or less.

Between the two antique centers is the High Springs Art Co-op, where Behnke is one of 14 artists who display and sell their work, including pottery, paintings and jewelry. Many original items are priced at about $50.

Each artist takes a shift manning the cash register at the co-op, which opened in February at 115 N. Main St.

"The space was a gallery before but the owner was having trouble getting staff," Behnke said. "We are thrilled to be here. We couldn't afford to have a place like this otherwise."

The gardens of roses and herbs, with their fish pond and gazebo, attracted Paul and Lucie Regensdorf to the Grady House Historic Bed & Breakfast.

Attorneys in Fort Lauderdale, they were ready for a change. They wanted to run a small-town bed and breakfast. The five-room inn and two-bedroom cottage next door fit the bill. Four years later, Paul still works in Fort Lauderdale, but he joins Lucie and their four rescue Dalmatians at the inn every weekend.

The two have made their inn a retreat for pampering; it recently was voted Best B&B in a Florida Monthly Magazine readers' poll. "The place is somewhere between staying at Grandma's and The Ritz," Lucie says.

During a recent Thursday and Friday night stay, my husband and I found rooms decorated in yellow, navy, green, peach or red. The linens and décor, which play to each room's color theme, include lots of antiques and collectibles.

All of the rooms have queen or king beds and three include an adjoining parlor with a daybed and sitting area. All have private baths, most with an old-fashioned claw-foot tub and shower.

Little touches add to the ambience: almond shampoo, a book shelf of CDs with love songs and chick flicks, chocolates by the bed, and a refrigerator well stocked with complimentary wine as well as sodas and beer.

A fireplace in the parlor and lots of magazines and newspapers make it the perfect place to snuggle, visit with other guests, or enjoy a solitary read.

Breakfast brings warm fresh-baked breads (sour cream and cinnamon when we visited), fresh fruits, fresh-squeezed juice and lots of hot coffees. And that's just for starters.

The full meal is served in the dining rooms. The menu varies but it may include strata (an Italian omelet), raspberry-cheesecake-filled pancakes, strudel with cheese fillings, eggs and bacon. Paul serves while his wife prepares the food, but it's hard to tell whether he's working or just having a good time. He jokes with guests and shares tales about his law practice and his experiences owning a historic inn.

"If you are not having fun running a bed and breakfast, you've got to move on," he says.

All the food and chat invites lingering, but eventually, guests head toward town for shopping; activities on the river; a stroll in the gardens; or right back to bed. It's as if time stands still.

For dinner, we tried the Great Outdoors Restaurant at 65 N. Main St. We found a nice selection of burgers, salads, pastas, steak and seafood, mostly for $10 to $15. There's outdoor patio dining, a cozy fireplace, performances by locals, and its own private labeled beers, including Naked Ed's Pale Ale. The restaurant offers lunch and dinner with a happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday through Thursday and half-price wine on Thursday evenings. There's live music most weekends.

During our visit, we got a special treat: the reclusive Naked Ed - fully clothed - was among the customers.

I can't guarantee you an Ed sighting, but High Springs will make you want to go back.  My husband and I already have booked our next visit: It's the perfect place to celebrate our wedding anniversary.

llake@tampatrib.com