Miami a getaway for dolphin-loving mom and son

Sometime around my 30th birthday, I decided I really wanted to be a dolphin trainer when I grew up. Sadly, I was reminded by my mother that, at least in theory, I was already grown. So I did the next best thing and spent a day at Discovery Cove in Orlando, pretending Mom was wrong.

That was a few years ago, but I still daydream about that day. Often. And after seeing a trailer for the upcoming movie "Dolphin Tale," filmed at the Clearwater Marine Aquarium, I jumped into a search for another place to play with the slippery, super-smart beauties.

I got lucky. Not only did I find a great place to indulge my trainer fantasy, I also found a fabulous getaway destination that turned into a two-day, off-the-beaten-path adventure.

The Sonesta Bayfront Hotel in Coconut Grove has teamed up with the Miami Seaquarium to offer two-night packages that include a 30-minute dolphin interaction experience at the aquarium's Dolphin Harbor.

Family-friendly and within walking distance to the CocoWalk open-air shopping mall, as well as several other points of interest in Coconut Grove, the Sonesta is a gem.

The eighth-floor rooftop pool, with its sweeping views of the sailboat-filled bay, instantly won over my 10-year-old son, Colton.

Located on Key Biscayne, the Miami Seaquarium is a scenic 10-minute drive from the hotel. Once we'd traded our clothes for wetsuits, my son and I joined about 10 other people for a 20-minute orientation on dolphins that included fascinating information on dolphin behavior and profiles of remarkable dolphin/human interactions around the world.

We also got a basic lesson in dolphin anatomy -- where to put your hands … and where to avoid putting them. Their mouths, eyes and blow holes are a big no-no. And if dolphins wore pants, you wouldn't put your hands there either. Other than that, we were given free reign.

As our orientation instructor, Liz, instructed us on the proper way to hitch a ride on a dolphin -- float, arm out, grab the dorsal fin, and swing around and grab on with the other arm, cowboy jumping-on-a-running-horse style -- my son's face radiated sheer terror. But once we were in the water, his nerves calmed.

We were split into two small groups and led to opposite sides of the pool, allowing for plenty of space and an intimate experience, with just a handful of guests per dolphin.

The trainers started with introductions -- our sweet girl's name was Bimini -- then showed us up close her razor sharp teeth, as well as her tiny pinprick ears and the notches on her tail. Each dolphin's tail is unique, like a fingerprint, allowing trainers to tell one from another. And once you get to know them, we were told, their personalities are as unique as their tails.

Donning goggles, we submerged to watch Bimini perform several behaviors under water, then we were given several chances to interact with her; flipper high-fives and kisses were my favorite. Tossing half a fish into her mouth as Bimini jumped just inches away was a highlight for my son.

Our session wrapped up with a dolphin-riding skills test. I went first, so I didn't have time to watch and learn from the mistakes of others, but there was nothing to it. Float, grab, go. Looking back, I might have opted for a close-mouthed smile instead of a laugh; there is a lot of salt in that water. A whole lot.

There was really only one problem with the whole experience. It ended. I could have stayed in that pool all day. "This is the best day ever," my son said after hitching his own ride.

You can make a day of exploring the rest of the aquarium, which offers shows and presentations at various times throughout the day. The TV show "Flipper" was filmed in the Seaquarium's lagoon from 1964 to 1967, and the place has a quaint, old-fashioned feel, especially if you have visited the more modern Florida Aquarium or Sea World. But that isn't a drawback; it lends to the charm. A children's play area surrounded by a moat full of sharks was the highlight for me. If only my backyard were bigger….

We stayed for a few shows, then decided to check out Crandon Park, located just a few minutes from the aquarium. With enough parking, picnic tables and green space to accommodate huge crowds, the park itself is a treasure. And the beach is priceless. It's best known for its natural sandbar that protects swimmers from an otherwise crashing surf. We loved it because we could wade out several hundred feet and the water wasonly up to our knees, and crystal clear.

Back at the hotel, salty and sleepy, we went straight to the pool for a lounge chair nap before ordering dinner. And the food was incredible. The poolside Panorama Restaurant and Sky Lounge served up the best food we had during our stay in Coconut Grove. I kicked back and absorbed the gorgeous view, and my son swam while we waited for our food, which was served quickly. But the speed of service didn't compromise the quality; my mahi-mahi sandwich was divine, and Colton -- typically a picky eater -- inhaled his burger. I also happened to overhear another guest tell the waiter his mojito was the best he'd ever had. Breakfast the next morning was just as good: spicy eggs Benedict for me, pancakes as big as my head for him. I am a sucker for great food and even more so for good service, and the Sonesta delivered both.

I came to play with the dolphins, but I would go back for the breathtaking views and the food.

Maybe I have grown up. A little.

Exploring Coconut Grove:

The Sonesta Bayfront is located in the heart of Coconut Grove, and you can leave the car behind for a day to explore on foot.

"There's a lot of history here," Bob Dunbar, co-owner of Catch- A-Wave Surf Shop across the street from the Sonesta told me as my son fawned over the merchandise. The shop itself has been there for 30 years; the business was started by Dunbar's father. If you stop by the shop, he's happy to give you a local's insight on what to do and see in the area. The shop is at 2990 McFarlane Road, Coconut Grove; (305) 569-0339.

Scotty's Landing is a must-visit. A local hangout with outdoor seating overlooking the bay, the atmosphere was great. We had eaten a large lunch earlier in the day, so we just hung out and had chips and salsa. Unfortunately, the salsa tasted like bait. But the fun was in the salty breeze and the people watching. Live entertainment is offered Friday through Sunday. It's at 3381 Pan American Drive, Coconut Grove; (305) 854-2626; http://www.sailmiami.com/scottys.htm

Be still my beating heart; Bookstore in the Grove is a bookworm's delight. You are sure to find titles that might never have caught your eye on the bottom shelf at a chain store. The bestsellers don't get preferential treatment. The store also boasts an impressive selection of children's titles. You'll find it at 3399 Virginia Street, Coconut Grove; (305) 443-2855.

Built by Ralph Middleton Munroe, one of Coconut Grove's pioneers, the Barnacle House is Miami-Dade County's oldest home still situated in its original location. Open for tours Friday through Monday, it's in Barnacle State Park, 3485 Main Highway, Coconut Grove; (305) 442-6866.

CocoWalk, an outdoor shopping center, has an array of boutiques, chain stores and a wide variety of eateries, as well as a movie theater with all-reserved premium seating. It's at 3015 Grand Ave.,

Coconut Grove; (305) 444-0777.

Find a detailed Coconut Grove walking tour guide at http://tiny.cc/coconutgrovetour.

Other dolphin encounters:

Discovery Cove, 6000 Discovery Cove Way, Orlando – This all-inclusive resort-style water park offers guests a full day of snorkeling with tropical fish and giant stingrays (stingers removed, of course), relaxing on the wind-away river, exploring the aviary and, of course, a 30-minute dolphin interaction experience. Prices vary, depending on the season. Florida resident rates start at $199 per person. Visit www.discoverycove.com or call (877) 557-7404 for details.

Dolphin Research Center, 58901 Overseas Highway, Grassy Key. Get into the water at the research center with the Dolphin Dip program, which includes about 20 to 25 minutes of in-water time. Cost is $104 per person for ages 5 and up. Children younger than 8 must be accompanied in the water by a participating adult. Dolphin Dip is free for children 4 and under, who must be held by a parent or guardian. The research center also offers a variety of other interactive programs. Go to www.dolphins.org/visit_get_wet.php#PLAY or call (305) 289-0002 for details.

Dolphin Cove, MM 101.9 Bay Side, Key Largo. This marine education center offers several dolphin encounter experiences, from a deep-water snorkel session to a shallow-water, waist-deep interaction program. Combination packages are available. Visit http://www.dolphinscove.com/program-information.htm or call (877) 365-2683.

If you go

The Sonesta Bayfront dolphin encounter two-night package starts at $224 a night through Sept.30, and includes one shallow water encounter at the Miami Seaquarium per guest. An upgrade to the deep-water encounter, which includes the ride across the pool, can be arranged through the aquarium for an additional $60 per person. Guests must be 52 inches tall for the deep-water encounter.

Take cash. There is a $1.50 toll to drive onto Key Biscayne, where the aquarium is located. Parking at the aquarium is $8.

The dolphin encounters at the Miami Seaquarium also are available without the Sonesta package. There are two to choose from: The shallow-water experience is $139 for adults, $99 for children 5 to 9; it includes admission to the aquarium and 30-minutes touching, feeding and playing with a dolphin at the Dolphin Harbor.

The 30-minute deep-water encounter, which includes the ride across the pool, is $199 per person. Guests must be at least 52 inches tall.

For details, go to http://tiny.cc/miamiseaquarium.